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Courtesy of Brian Thomason
Restoring Interior Door Panels and Wood Trim
This process is neither difficult or tedious (as evidenced by the
fact that I was able to do it); it is rather time consuming. You
should plan to have the door panel apart for a minimum of 2 days.
Credit to my good friend, Mary Reyes-Stracener for coming up with
how to re-finish the wood.
Materials
Phillips head Screwdriver
Razor Blade
Furniture Refinisher
Steel Wool
Stain (optional)
Tung oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, or some kind of Lacquer/Polyurethane
A couple of towels
I. Remove Door Panel
Chances are, your wood trim looks like this:

The wood trim in my 1980 528i had a thick lacquer that with time
and heat had cracked. I decided to re-finish it, to do this first
remove the door panel by completing the following steps:
1. Remove the screw on the underside of the of the top part of
the armrest. This holds the kinda-triangular chrome piece in
place:
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2. Once youve removed the chrome piece, youll have
access to the screw that mounts the top part of the armrest to
the door. Remove that screw as well.
3. Remove the three screws that secure the bottom part of the
armrest to the door:


4. Remove the screw that holds the door handle to the door.
5. Remove the ashtray (on rear doors), and remove the two screws
that hold the ashtray receptacle in place.
6. Unscrew the door lock knob.
7. GENTLY pull the plastic retaining clips around the edge of the
door away from the sheetmetal. If you are patient and gentle
enough, they wont break. Steady pressure generally does the
trick.
8. Disconnect all electrical apparati.
9. On the back of the door panel, you should see something like
this:

Remove the white backing (it actually looks like spare headliner
material on my car). Youll reattach it later I used
3M General Upholstery Adhesive from Wal-Mart. Once youve
done that youll see the brads used to attach the wood:

10. GENTLY pry up the metal brads. Try to tear the fiberboard as
little as possible. Then remove the wood from the door panel.
II. Refinishing the Wood
At this point, you should have something that looks like this:

Note that the wood shown here has been stripped, you can see some
lacquer on the bottom of the panel not quite halfway from either
end.
1. To strip the lacquer off, I found the most effective method
was to chip it with a razor blade. BE CAREFUL! The idea is to
scratch the wood as little as possible.
2. Once the wood is stripped of the lacquer, you may want to sand
it, if youve put a lot of scratches in it. I used a 150
grit sandpaper.
3. Next refinish the wood using some kind of refinishing product.
I used Formbys from Wal-Mart (no affiliation, yada yada).
Follow the directions on the can, Im not going to re-write
them here. When I finished this step, the paneling looked like
this:
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4. If you dont want any stain in the wood, proceed directly
to your choice of finish. I chose to re-finish the wood in Tung
Oil, using two coats. I didnt use a lacquer or Polyurethane
because I didnt want it to crack again. Follow the
directions for whatever you choose to do. If you decide to stain,
you wont need much significantly less than the
smallest size available at Wal-Mart (a pint). Follow the
directions on staining the wood. After one coat of stain, the
panel looked like this (I chose a mahogany stain):

I stained the wood twice. Wait at least 4 hours between staining
sessions.
5. After the stain has dried overnight, you can add the finish of
your choice. Tung oil has to dry for 12 hours between coats.
III. Put it all back together
At this point youre ready to put everything back together.
Installation is the reverse of removal, as they say. Be sure to
re-adhesive the headliner pieces to the fiberboard after you
reattach the wood. I took this opportunity to grease everything
in the doors I could get to, as well as polish and clean the
chrome on each door. It was amazingly satisfying. After
everything was said and done, my doors looked like this:

Good luck! Comments and feedback welcome to Brian Thomason,
grumpsjr@yahoo.com
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