Interior Door gasket and window channel replacement
You guys asked for it, so here it is. I'll try to get pictures here
eventually. BTW, this is the procedure as performed to a 1980 528i w/
power windows. Procedures may change slightly for different cars, or if
you have manual windows.
The interior door fabric covered gasket
The door gasket I am referring to is the one on the
interior, not on the door. It is covered in fabric and runs along the
frame. It is avaiable from
Specialities and Supply.
Its called Windlace and comes in several colors and is sold by the foot.
Figure about 25 feet or so for all 4 doors. This stuff is real nice,
BETTER than original. The OEM stuff is just the fabric covered piece.
windlace is the fabric, plus an additional round rubber gasket. Until I
get pictures, this crappy drawing will have to do.
Original stuff - U
Windlace - UO
The window channel
This stuff is available from Restoration
Specialities and Supply. too, however, I've never used it yet. I've
got a sample and it looks good. Only problem is, it needs to be cut,
mitered and glued. If you get OEM stuff ($$$), this is already done for
you. Figure $50 each for OEM stuff and about half that for the genereic
stuff by the foot. Will put the RS&S part number here soon.
The interior door felt covered gasket
This is easy. Remove the old stuff, install the new stuff. Really its
that easy. A couple things though. Make sure you cut the gasket to the
correct size. I just put it on the car uncut and then cut it at the
appropriate spot. You'll probably need tin snips or maybe a dremel to cut
it. Also, you will need to do some maneuvering to get
it to fit under the B-pillar and some trimming to get it under the door
The window channel
You are on your own if you need to cut and miter and glue the genereic
stuff. I haven't done this yet. Once you'e done that or if you have the
OEM stuff, this is what you do.
Remove the door panel. (I won't go into that). Remove the plastic (if you
have it). Remove the aluminum trim from the window sill (4 srews). After
that is off, remove the felt piece from the sill. This gives you room to
Now you have two choices. I've done this two ways. On my first one, the
window was coming off its rests (glued on), so I just removed the whole
window, ripped out the old channel, put the new one in. Then I needed to
reinstall the window, not exaclty the reverese of removal. Its tough
getting it in the right spot, but you can do it. After the window was
in, I reglued it to its rests, and waited two days. Good as new.
The other option, actually is easier. The window was secure on its rests,
so I left it in. Lower the window. Start ripping out the old channel from
the top. If you pull hard enough, it will slide out of its
channel. (Mine was in especially bad shape, so it was easy.) Be careful
now, the window of course is fragile. Getting the new gasket in takes some
work. I used some silicone spray to lube up the rubber side of the
channel. Then lined it up with the window and slide it down into its
place. You can only push it from the top so far, then you have to raise
the window, and pull down on it from the bottom. Eventaully you get it
into place. Use enough silicone spray to make
it slide in easy, but not too much so slides out too easily.
You will probably need to raise and lower the window a couple of times,
and work with the channel to get it in the exact right position, but its
fairly easy to do.
Its fantastic. The car is vastly quieter, and I've only done the fronts
so far. The doors close with no problem. Windows go up and down very
nicely. If you have a bad window motor, you'll know for sure now, cause
it will really have a hard time getting all the way up. Figure about 1
hour per door to do both the window channel and the interior door gasket.
Hope this helps. Email me with questions at firstname.lastname@example.org