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When my son's 1980 had this problem, it ended up being the connections to the combo relay.

I have the blue bosch engine management book but not the yellow. I'll look into that. Don't know why I didn't think of the temp sensors since I just went through that on my son's 528e. If I can get a break from work I'll get back to it. Thanks for the replies.

Replaced another bad injector and installed the 320i intake runners. Reset the timing, checked for vacuum leaks. Previously I went through the FAQ for setting the idle and WOT, the AFM, etc. Now the car runs pretty good when warm (still down on power due to low compression, but doesn't run like it ...

My 914 with D-Jet works the same way. I don't think you'll be able to accurately diagnose this without setting up an in-line pressure tester but you might try this (which really only helps confirm what you already know). You can jumper the fuel pump at the combo relay to make it run all the time. Do ...

The new connectors have about 4-5 inches of wire on them. So I'll try to preserve the rubber boots and solder them, put shrink stuff on them and put it back on. The connectors I got are the newer ones (type C), where you can push on the wire to release them, unlike the originals that you have to ...

The Sun analyzer results are that the ignition circuit is all working correctly (previous post). So last nite I pulled the injector half of the harness out to replace it with my spare. The spare looks just as bad. I need to replace all the broken plastic terminals that attach to the injectors. I ...

Swapped the front half of the wiring harness (ignition side) and put in a new combo relay but no joy. Found out the ballast resistor can easily get hot (it is a resistor after all) so probably not the problem. I have a buddy with a Sun engine analyzer that I am going to try Monday. I won't be ...

Years ago, on my old harness, when the combo relay burned up (and took the wire ends with it), I did just as suggested and made new, soldered ends. When I swapped engines, I just took the harness that was with the new engine. I think all the other bits (relays, coil, AFM, computer) are the ones that ...

I was thinking I had swapped the combo relay, but it was with another old one. I've had one burn up before, and come to think of it, the symptoms would fit the "on/off" nature of the problem. I do know a brilliant BMW guy but at $85/hour I'd rather fix it myself. As an engineer by trade, it just ...

I never have made the 528i run correctly since the transmission and engine swap. So last nite I swapped out the distributor, re-timed the car and it ran great. I couldn't believe the difference. Power across the range, winding out nicely, easy to pass traffic on the interstate. This morning I start ...

Questions: will they fit without seat-rail mods, and are the control motors the same as e28 comfort seats? If so I might pick them up.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/1326595147.html

I just haven't been able to put my finger on it. I'll go back through everything this weekend. I have spares of everything from the donor car (ICU, resistors, AFM, distributor), and have swapped everything but the resistors, ICU and distributor, so maybe I will go that direction. I kinda figured ...

Looks like the engine swap from the '81 parts car I bought is bad. Low compression (around 100) on two cylinders. The car also drives like it has a rev-limiter set at 3300 RPM. I have been through a long list: valves set, timing set and reset, AFM, throttle body, vacuum, injectors, etc. The last ...

On the last pull, I took the engine and trans together. Put the front up on good jack stands. Use a floor jack to support the rear of the trans. Take your time and use the hoist and jack together to manipulate the engine/trans up and out. It will come out almost vertical. You may need to lower the ...

I put Mobile One 80-90W in, and am having a similar problem with noise.