Firstfives.org

Right, the cars were built well and im sure they took into consideration the draws you could put on a factory system. Im guessing its best if your putting pretty substantially greater loads on your car. Like that that new box with 6 14" alpines in the trunk, right robert? Haha

its easiest when you can get someone to do it.

there shouldnt be any "play"(movement) when it comes to your suspension

but what is the advantage to the e28 alternator? more voltage or just longerlastering?

yea have someone jiggle the wheel and look at each piece of hardware movement

helped it along nicely.. haha.

i wanna dump my reactors as well. the best way i can figure is to start measuring exhaust port spacing and getting some cheap headers that fit. because as i see i, even an ebay brand header has got to outflow these things. tho i must say, ive never seen a problem ...

T.Hanson wrote:Maybe check fuel pressure regulator. (?)
Google test fuel pressure search said to test it off the fuel rail fitting that we don't have.

lol, thats great

Poly bushings. i got the cheap ones autozone keeps on shelves, the endlink set. they were 3/4" too long i think so i hacked the tip off and fit perfect and front end was tight and responsive.

right, that is for the thermal reactors, to warn you if the reactors themselves are getting to hot, in turn melting the heads. it is on my car with the same lettering, it has never come on but it lights up for a split second with the ignition. maybe they are sooty, and heating up some? if you take ...

maybe it is ground issue at the sending unit connector? could it be rubbing in between the tank and trunk floor? idk, has to be electrical if its flickering the light, i am thinking. gas in the filter didnt seem rusty or anything?

Does anyone out there know the procedure to taking it all off? it looks pretty straight forward to me just pull it off and cap the holes, but im wondering if its going to change anything like the idle or what not, any info would be much apreciated, thanks,
matt

wish i had seen this post before u ran, the guibo thing freaks me out. when i bought mine it did the same thing(not to the end of my tranny but still), would love to do a solid drive shaft. seems like it would be a lot less lost energy.

instead of spending a good bit of money on new springs(shocks ...

I'd still like to see an explanation on why this source of unmetered air is apparanently OK for the engine. It's apparently designed to suck in ambient air along with the gasoline vapors upstream of the AFM.
because its not a free flowing system of air; as the gas tank gets hot during the day ...

it seems like a sensor may be wacko or something to me.
when the engine is cold it will take many many cranks of the starter before it starts up, after that i have to keep me foot on the gas to keep it going.
When warm has no problems driving or starting again.
Ive rigged a switch to the cold start ...