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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:23 pm
by themilkguy
Eric: thanks for the intel. Beat me to the punch about not needing rear spacers so thanks for that, too.
Carl: true, the rubber that's on there now is shite. I'm sure they'll look much better with a new set of 215's.
Thanks guys
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:25 pm
by Carl
themilkguy wrote:Eric: thanks for the intel. Beat me to the punch about not needing rear spacers so thanks for that, too.
Carl: true, the rubber that's on there now is shite. I'm sure they'll look much better with a new set of 215's.
Thanks guys
yeah doesn't surprise me, what are you planning on wrapping them in? And please put pics up when you decide to throw them on I'm very curious of the fitament
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:29 pm
by themilkguy
Haha - I have no idea yet. I'm still in the welding phase. There is zero chance of having this car on the road this year, perhaps next summer.
Many, many fish to fry before I get into tire selection.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:40 pm
by wkohler
You're going to have to do something about your studs.
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:41 pm
by Carl
themilkguy wrote:Haha - I have no idea yet. I'm still in the welding phase. There is zero chance of having this car on the road this year, perhaps next summer.
Many, many fish to fry before I get into tire selection.

haha I have two roads I go down (haha so punny) if I want decent tyres that are for a commuter I go with the cheapest tyre les schwab or tyre rack has or Craigslist, if I want to put nice tyre on it depends on the purpose, if I want an all around kick a tyre I go with a conti extreme contact dw and if I want track/ auto x performance I go with direzza star specs
I should have my wheels by friend I'll go home and throw my car on my lift and do a test fitament and post up some pics!
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:56 pm
by themilkguy
wkohler wrote:You're going to have to do something about your studs.
I assume you mean their length? (there's the noob shining through!)
We have an industrial and truck supply shop in town that seems to have every element and increment of bolt, nut, and stud. I imagine I can show up there with my present studs and pick up some longer ones.
What length do you recommend? Assuming I'm even on the right track with this.
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:01 pm
by Carl
themilkguy wrote:wkohler wrote:You're going to have to do something about your studs.
I assume you mean their length? (there's the noob shining through!)
We have an industrial and truck supply shop in town that seems to have every element and increment of bolt, nut, and stud. I imagine I can show up there with my present studs and pick up some longer ones.
What length do you recommend? Assuming I'm even on the right track with this.
I must be nooby too, maybe he means diameter though most likely length
To Koehler, is there a way to swap studs virtually pain free without swapping the entire hub assembly? Is it possible to go with a lugnut conversion? I've only ever dealt with newer cars with lugnuts
Re: BBS and offsets...
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:08 pm
by Blaise
themilkguy wrote:Hi all, I did some searching last night but I'm not sure I used the right phrases because I couldn't figure out the answer...
I just picked up a set of 16" BBS basketweaves from an E28.
They are 8Jx16H2 ET24
So, that's an 8" deep, 16" rim with a 24mm offset, right? Right.
Does this mean I need spacers?
The ridiculous part are the 205/65's on the rims - the sidewalls are stretched so wide I have NO idea how they were installed. There is no way these things were safe to drive like this. Craziness.
Not sure if your car will have the same clearance as an E12, but here is what I learned.
I installed the following:
16x8 et24 225/50/16 on the rear....fenders had to be rolled.
16x7 et11 205/55/16 on the front...if I hit a big bump at near full turn, I can hit the fender (my driveway). The solution is to enter my driveway at a more reasonable speed:) But otherwise totally clear.
Hope that helps.
Re: BBS and offsets...
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:42 pm
by Carl
Blaise wrote:themilkguy wrote:Hi all, I did some searching last night but I'm not sure I used the right phrases because I couldn't figure out the answer...
I just picked up a set of 16" BBS basketweaves from an E28.
They are 8Jx16H2 ET24
So, that's an 8" deep, 16" rim with a 24mm offset, right? Right.
Does this mean I need spacers?
The ridiculous part are the 205/65's on the rims - the sidewalls are stretched so wide I have NO idea how they were installed. There is no way these things were safe to drive like this. Craziness.
Not sure if your car will have the same clearance as an E12, but here is what I learned.
I installed the following:
16x8 et24 225/50/16 on the rear....fenders had to be rolled.
16x7 et11 205/55/16 on the front...if I hit a big bump at near full turn, I can hit the fender (my driveway). The solution is to enter my driveway at a more reasonable speed:) But otherwise totally clear.
Hope that helps.
If I ran 16x 8" on my Bavaria on both front and rear, with 215 35 16 think I would have to roll my fenders?
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:41 pm
by Eric Q
themilkguy wrote:wkohler wrote:You're going to have to do something about your studs.
I assume you mean their length? (there's the noob shining through!)
We have an industrial and truck supply shop in town that seems to have every element and increment of bolt, nut, and stud. I imagine I can show up there with my present studs and pick up some longer ones.
What length do you recommend? Assuming I'm even on the right track with this.
You need an extra 20mm for the wheels, plus an additional amount for the spacers depending upon what width spacers you use.
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:24 am
by wkohler
I saw these recommended on an E9 forum:
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-7715/10002/-1
You'd have to figure out the stock length of your studs, then add to it as Eric said. I just copied and pasted a part number I found. As you can see, they're not cheap. It's an unfortunate side-effect of running those wheels. They're beautiful wheels on E12s, though!
When it comes to bolts, the stock wheel bolt is considered to be 25mm measured from the base of the cone seat to the edge of the threads. A BBS bolt that would have shipped with the RAs is 44mm. Aftermarket, there are no 44mm bolts, but 45s are acceptable.
Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:50 am
by themilkguy
Thanks Chris and Eric. Much appreciated.
Cheers