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Engine oil choice
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 5:13 pm
by Blaise
As I near my M30B34 euro conversion (5 speed too) first fire up, I am wondering what kind of oil I will run in it.
This is a motor that was rebuilt less than 10k miles ago, so is broken in, but fresh.
I usually run mobil 1 synthetic in my vehicles.
Input appreciated.
Mobil 1 recommends 0W40, but that seems rather light to me.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:33 pm
by T.Hanson
You can do a Google search of previous discussions on the subject.
My stock 2.8's, 60,000, 150,000 get Napa, Valvoline spec 10/40, changed every 3,000. Unless I remember a thousand late.
Works fine, no problems, smoke, noise, but I drive all nice and quiet and the cars are just daily drivers. Probably if I had your car, engine I might think I should buy fancier labels on the bottles.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:38 pm
by Mike W.
There is more to oil than thickness to be sure, but... clearances and other things were designed for 20-50. I might go 10-50 or 20-40 or 15-40, maybe even 10-40, but nothing thinner. 20-50 is spec'd for a very wide temperature range. Many M30s, more 3.5s, but still, many M30s have gone 300K on 20-50. 0-40 even with synthetic is way too thin.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 10:21 pm
by Blaise
Mike W. wrote:There is more to oil than thickness to be sure, but... clearances and other things were designed for 20-50. I might go 10-50 or 20-40 or 15-40, maybe even 10-40, but nothing thinner. 20-50 is spec'd for a very wide temperature range. Many M30s, more 3.5s, but still, many M30s have gone 300K on 20-50. 0-40 even with synthetic is way too thin.
That was my thought too. I will likely run a 20W50.
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 12:55 pm
by Blaise
I did redline MTL in the transmission.
Redline gear oil in the differential.
Likely going 20W50 castrol synthetic in the engine.
Brakes getting castrol dot 4 GT LMA
Power steering?
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 4:16 pm
by Lenny D.
Brand ATF.
I use Pennzoil.
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:51 pm
by wkohler
Valvoline VR1 20w50 is what I run in my M90s and M30s. It has high levels of ZDDP and designed for flat-tappet motors.
After
Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 12:34 pm
by Domingo
The upper part of the engine was renewed went to Texaco 5-40 syntetic with excelents results, the engine roars much much better and easier.
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 12:00 pm
by DEMIURGE
I thinked a lot, before I decided to post my reply...
I know - some of you will say - it is unduly.
I use Selenia 10W60 fully syntetic in my Euro M30B28.
I'm "in a hurry" to say - I did this after an engine overhaul.
As a first step I used some Shell semi-syntetic - I even didn't remember it's "numbers", because it was only for a initial run-in period.
After maybe 800 km (500 miles) I switched to fully syntetic.
There were two benefits I've noticed:
1. With the first oil, at hot weather and heavy engine load - the needle of the temperature gauge went somewhere to one or one and a half o'clock.
After the transition to fully syntetic this issue disappeared - at the same circumstances the needle was nailed to 12 o'clock.
2. Without any doubt - better and faster engine start at cold weather (-15 degrees Celsius).