Brake master cylinder replaced : report.
Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 7:28 pm
The brittle yellow, black, plastic 37 year old fluid reservoir gently pulls straight up to remove. This sentence will help you having to guess, use a mirror, experience the terror knowing the new version costs $196.00 and the drawing doesn't look like the one you are removing.
I'll like being proved blind and wrong. Not Hayne's, Chilton's or the online fudge photo e12 repair manual makes any reference to removing the reservoir. In fact, the instructions for replacing the brake master cylinder using all three instruction sets combined can be as effectively used making pancakes.
First, you'll need absolutely no money at all to willingly pay any shop to do the job. Second, unlimited stubborness, patience, and tolerance for pain. Your knuckles and skin will be damaged in the fight.
There are five brake lines attached to the cylinder. All will be torqued to 1,618 ft.lbs. and welded with 37 years of corrosion. A proper 6 pt. brake fitting wrench must be used to avoid stripping the aluminum insert nuts. This wrench is too short to loosen the nuts torque welded to those specs.
You will have to use your intelligence to see which components in the engine bay need to be loosened, moved or removed to allow the wrench to fit on the fitting, turn enough to turn the fitting, and allow the hammer enough room to swing to rotate the fittings below 1,100 ft.lbs.
Once the fittings are loose it's only a matter of contorting your wrists, fingers around, under the cylinder,... unable to see, willing to use whatever tools are necessary to get the brake lines out of the cylinder.
This includes removing the cylinder from the vacuum boost big round thing, allowing the cylinder to rotate. And any last (paint removing) brake fluid to slop around the rags that were stupid in the first place.
As the pancake instructions direct : The new cylinder is installed by reversing the removal procedures.
I'll like being proved blind and wrong. Not Hayne's, Chilton's or the online fudge photo e12 repair manual makes any reference to removing the reservoir. In fact, the instructions for replacing the brake master cylinder using all three instruction sets combined can be as effectively used making pancakes.
First, you'll need absolutely no money at all to willingly pay any shop to do the job. Second, unlimited stubborness, patience, and tolerance for pain. Your knuckles and skin will be damaged in the fight.
There are five brake lines attached to the cylinder. All will be torqued to 1,618 ft.lbs. and welded with 37 years of corrosion. A proper 6 pt. brake fitting wrench must be used to avoid stripping the aluminum insert nuts. This wrench is too short to loosen the nuts torque welded to those specs.
You will have to use your intelligence to see which components in the engine bay need to be loosened, moved or removed to allow the wrench to fit on the fitting, turn enough to turn the fitting, and allow the hammer enough room to swing to rotate the fittings below 1,100 ft.lbs.
Once the fittings are loose it's only a matter of contorting your wrists, fingers around, under the cylinder,... unable to see, willing to use whatever tools are necessary to get the brake lines out of the cylinder.
This includes removing the cylinder from the vacuum boost big round thing, allowing the cylinder to rotate. And any last (paint removing) brake fluid to slop around the rags that were stupid in the first place.
As the pancake instructions direct : The new cylinder is installed by reversing the removal procedures.
