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The new bushings have a a raised area on both sides of the bushing .On one side the raised are is rounded....on the other side of the bushing is a smaller flat raised area. Which side goes into the sway bar slot? Realoem and the manual photos aren't too clear on this.
Also...what is the best way to compress the bushings so that the there is enough thread on the bolt showing to get the nut on.

Where did you get your bushings? They shouldn't have flanges or raised areas on both sides, or you have the wrong bushings. The flat side obviously goes on the cup washer side, raised side on the bar side. There should be plenty of threads on the bolt to get the nuts on, or something is wrong.

The smaller raised part fits into the groove in the swaybar hole, you'll see it's the same size, the 'rounded' bump side/doughnut bit goes on to the washer side. Don't forget the washers curve up away from the rubber bushings, not over them. Just look at the other end of the car, back and front are the same assembly and same parts mostly.

I used an adjustable clamp to compress one side down as much as possible so that you can get the nut started on the thread. It's really tight, I used two nuts to lock it all together. Line the other side up with all the pieces otherwise you'll have to undo it all again.

After replacing the original rubbers which were mostly Swiss cheese, it drives like new, no lean in corners at all.

A picky look at parts drawing the shows the washers are open away from the bushings. I.e., flat side towards the rubber.

Loosen the second hex (jam) nut, then the nut. No big deal spring action, the assembly comes apart.

I clean up the bolts. Heads because they usually have been boogered, the shafts, threads are usually rust crud. A dab of light grease, anti-seize seems good for the next ten years.

Bushings want the flat sides against the washers, the projections insert into the sway bar. Logical when looking at the ends of the bar.

As for starting the nut on the bolt no exposed threads, I made the decision to cheat four re-assemblies ago.

The drawing shows the bolt inserted from the top. Too bad. Inserting it from the bottom allows gravity to make having to stack the washers and bushings no bother at all. Starting the nut on the bolt at the top of the assembly by pushing down on it... finds the threads.

The assembly using a jam nut, if properly tightened, what are the odds it comes loose, falls off, the second one backs off, to make any big deal safety difference if it all happens on the bottom of the bolt or off the top ?

Besides no jam nut has ever unjammed to rethink my theory.

Stock sway bars, stock rubber washers in good, old but not cracked or mushy. One set of the zoomy red teflons. Nice to know that and all clean.

Other than that, no handling feel difference at all.