Firstfives.org

I think (but I am not completely sure) that I am experiencing clutch issues. Having experienced an epic failure with the hydraulics in my last E28, I am paranoid I will get stranded again in the E12. I've noticed difficulty engaging in some gears, once it wouldn't even hit the gear. It also seems to engage pretty quick. My trans fluid was changed within the last 3k miles and it looks alright, no leaking from either cylinder.

I was wondering if the pedal bracket is a failure point similar to the E28. I am a big guy and I have a heavy feet (or two as Kohler would say! ), but I generally drive pretty casually.

Any ideas before I just replace everything?

I don't think e12 brackets fail. Sometimes the master rod end (pot metal) snaps off - the replacement is steel

Most likely you need slave and master if you've never replaced them.

Thanks Peter. I forgot to mention that Jeff replaced the master before I bought the car, so it's only a few years (and not many miles) old. I guess that doesn't mean it couldn't fail, but...

JoshInAtlanta wrote:Thanks Peter. I forgot to mention that Jeff replaced the master before I bought the car, so it's only a few years (and not many miles) old. I guess that doesn't mean it couldn't fail, but...

Then maybe just flush and bleed the system and see if it helps

I had a master cylinder end fall off. Peter's right, new masters have steel ends so it was a problem.

When I used a pressure bleeder to cycle brake fluid myself I opened the clutch master as part of the deal. Nothing came out.

As the clutch pedal wasn't in the correct position a friend helped bleed the cylinder the old pump with foot method. Then, the cylinder seemed to be working fine but the pedal was still low, not up even with the brake pedal.

First, bleed the master cylinder the foot pump way. Keep fluid in brake reservoir topped up, etc.

If you pull the kick panel (note which wires go where on the window circuit breakers) you'll see the big bolt, self locking nut, nylon bushings, clevis on the master cylinder rod to clutch pedal. Double nuts on the clevis allow it to be threaded in/out and reassembled so the pedal is in the correct position. That done, it gets the correct pumping distance and works as it should.

Good idea to lube all the pivot points, and check the tranny is topped up.