Firstfives.org

I'll be tearing into my car shortly to begin the body work, but before that I'll be pulling the engine and tranny to put in the 5 speed.

The engine pull is to clean the engine bay and replace all the engine gaskets, hoses, etc.

My question for this thread is for the short hoses from the rail to the injectors.

How to?

Read the FAQ on the subject for overview. Just the rail comes off by separating from fuel pressure regulator in front, fuel line in back.

You'll need OEM BMW fuel line. Perfect fit is good for high pressure. Six big and six small injector seals. Autopartswarehouse.com

Use a sharp pointy tool to carefully get under the little wire clip holding the caps on the injectors. Once the wire on the side is away from the cap you can fit a small screwdriver under it, work it out from around the cap. Look, be patient, wire clip out the caps come off without breaking. Once the cap is free you can put the clip back in the slot, they just push back on.

Use an xacto knife or wood burning iron to cut the little fuel lines. Object is to get them off the rail (barbed) fittings without gouging the fittings to leak. Kind of make lots of little cuts, bend the fuel line until it comes off.

If you are lucky you'll still have the little metal caps on the ends of the fuel line. More work to cut under, but they go back on and you don't need hose clamps.

Place one of the old pieces of fuel line on top of the new to cut a new piece. As the old is slightly curved it's the easiest way to cut the six new pieces the correct length.

Do replace the big seals even if the old look fine. They are hard, brittle. Look which way is up, use a snap ring pliers, check the newies are seated.

Put the flange plates, where the two bolts go to hold the injector in the manifold, on the injector, in position, BEFORE you push the new fuel line, CAP first, on the barbed fitting. I.e., be sure of how things go together or you'll be back cutting the fuel line off.

A dab of dish soap, 409, on the fitting or in the line helps pushing it on.

You can drop the caps and flanges in toilet bowl cleaner to remove rust. It also removes any old zinc coating, to bare steel, so it's your call.

Realoem.com has exploded parts views if you lose your notes(?) The red fiber washers on the bolts are good, but discussion here has found it not critical if one or a few are missing. Hard to find to replace.

If you are going hog wild, it's possible to find a local plater, put all the hardware, bolts, nuts, washers, fuel rail etc. in a bag and have them zinc plated for like 40 bucks bulk rate. No sorting, so you may be back to realoem.com to see where the bolts go, but the new car gold stuff looks like you went to the trouble of cleaning.

Thanks.

Hopefully I'll be in a patient mood and measure twice so only one cut is required.