Posted by Peter Florance on January 30, 2000 at 17:52:04:
In Reply to: Testing Door Locks posted by mharper on January 27, 2000 at 14:51:33:
I have not figured it out yet. At the Mini Fest we rebuilt one of my lock motors:
If you start off with the motor like this:
http://www.firstfives.org/minifest/lmclosed.jpg
looking at the side opposite from the threaded studs, you can drill out the back side of these studs which form rivots. With the correct size bit, you should only have to drill about 1/4" deep. You need to leave the stud attatched to it's side.
When you take the motor unit apart, you'll see something like this:
http://www.firstfives.org/minifest/lm%20motor%20side%20II.jpg
and
http://www.firstfives.org/minifest/lm%20switch%20side.jpg
On the switch side you'll notice the two white limit switches on the pc board. These get tarnished up and can cause the motor to drag or not work at all.. A very light burnishing should bring the contacts back.
Once you're done cleaning the limit switches and lubing the shaft, make sure the little nylon piece on the shaft is slightly off of one of the limit switches so it's not over-extended. Then re-assemble. I used crazy glue in about 5 places around the case so I could split it again if I needed to.
That's the only problem I've seen in the motors. The rest of the problems on my car were broken wires in the harness from the door to the body. I replaced the harness section with 18 guage 3 conductor SO cable (AC line cord) and it worked well. The euro spec line cord with green, blue and brown is more flexible than the US UL listed junk but that all I had. Splicing to the harness was a bitch as the wire was pretty tarnished and I insisted on solder and heatshrink tubing.
Check the mini fest photos for more info.
Greg, I promise to organize this a little better for tech FAQ.
: How does one unit-test an E12 power door lock motor (off the car)?