ready to give up on 528i

[jkchappy]

I am working through a lot of issues to get things right with my 528i that has a '71 Bavaria block and an '81 2.8 head/fuel injection/ignition etc.

it was poorly assembled and I am having to go through it entirely and fix what the builder did wrong and I paid him for.

Today's problem is starter. I turn the key and get a click. I listen under the hood and can hear some spraying noise somewhere.

There is coolant sitting on the ledge of the block above the starter.

Did the starter go south? It has a brand new 12v battery.

should I dry the coolant and see if more leaks out?

I am about ready to try and find a replacement motor and start over....

[Mike W.]

On starting, a click more often than not means a poor battery cable connection. Remove them, clean and replace. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it's a good connection. If it's got an aftermarket clamp on terminal, R and R and clean it too. Starters do go bad, but most of the time it's just connections.

Coolant leaks are coolant leaks, it's a 30 year old car with disturbed hoses, meaning they've been recently removed. Look for where it is trickling down from.

If it's in good shape, a 71 Bav block would be a sweet engine on an E12. They had 9:1 compression instead of the 8.2:1 on a US spec 528i which would provide a modest, but nice bump in power over a stock engine. There may be a lot of detail work on things like leaks of all sorts, coolant, vacuum and fuel if all that was done was to R and R the engine, but it's the hazards of a 30 year old car, the very newest M30 out of a 93 E34 is still 16. Again, if the engine's in good shape, you would still potentially be facing these problems with another replacement engine.

[jkchappy]

Thanks.

I have brand new coolant hoses.
I have a brand new water pump, t-stat
I have the radiator cleaned and pressure tested
I have new belts
I new plugs
I have new battery

This is not the first car I have done, it is, however, the first one I trusted to someone else. The new stuff was added by me AFTER the car was pronounced 100%. I won't bore you with the details, let us just say I am going behind and making this as good as I can. It is 30 years old, I just want it to start run and drive.

I am thinking it might be time to recheck the head bolts as well.

I am going to replace the tires, brakes and windshield.

This leaves a radio and some body work to fix some surface rust on the body.

The interior is outstandingly good original.

This is why I am trying VERY hard to keep this moving forward

[T.Hanson]

My biggest ace has been having two 528's and one 635, same vintage. That and the idea they are my cars until the estate sale. Done deal, no backs.

Having two allows cheating. Where does this *#! go, I look at the one that's still together. As long as one is running it allows my stubborn will to yell help here, and the guru's have always helped me win.

On one hand, after replacing an engine I know how many teeny weeny parts have to go together just right. On the other hand, there are a finite number. Eventually, " Ah ha!" the drat thing that wasn't participating, shows up.

Once you've accepted you're not normal, I think it's fun.

[jkchappy]

I have owned over 60 cars so far in my life. A majority of them were ones I had to fix up or restore. I have no dreamy idea of how easy restoration is...

This car is going to my best friend of over 40 yrs. He likes buying cars from me since he knows that they are usually fixed to a standard higher than most people.

This car SHOULD have had a number of things done while it was in pieces, the person doing this job for me did this sans manual and took short cuts assembling it that have caused me to have to take thing back apart and redo them properly. I am not able to do this well due to some things not working quite right on my over 50 yr old body [ much like a 30 yr old car ]

So it is now down to the starter, the fan clutch, and the AFM. I believe most everything else has been replaced, the block has new front and rear seals and gaskets were bought for everything else, mind you the water pump was poorly fitted without a gasket so I am assuming the other new gaskets were installed, but who knows? the person lied to me about a number of things.

My goal is to get it running well enough to drive from St. Louis to Cleveland OH. My friend will then take up the job of finishing the body and driving it in nice weather. I am loosing money on this but it is okay if my friend gains a piece of history...

[Scott Bunn]

I found a 72 Bavaria at my local yard and was able to get the engine. It is in great shape for what the rest of the car looked like. I have it stored in my shed with all the ports sealed and the crankcase filled. Would the compression be the same as the 71? when did it change? Do you think it is worth rebuilding for my 77?

[jkchappy]

I found a 72 Bavaria at my local yard and was able to get the engine. It is in great shape for what the rest of the car looked like. I have it stored in my shed with all the ports sealed and the crankcase filled. Would the compression be the same as the 71? when did it change? Do you think it is worth rebuilding for my 77?

I would imagine it is the some as the '71. If you take time and do it all correctly it would be a wonderful upgrade. Mine is going to be a low flying missile when it is sorted out.

[Mike W.]

I found a 72 Bavaria at my local yard and was able to get the engine. It is in great shape for what the rest of the car looked like. I have it stored in my shed with all the ports sealed and the crankcase filled. Would the compression be the same as the 71? when did it change? Do you think it is worth rebuilding for my 77?

No, the 2800 in 71's were the last year for a while with higher compression. 72 would have been the first 3.0 with flat top pistons and 8.3:1 compression, the same as 530i's. The high compression 2.8s and the low compression 3.0s had the same rated HP, though the torque was higher on 3.0. Numbers get a little sketchy as 72 was when the ratings process changed, so 192 gross HP out of a 2.8 is the same as 170 net HP out of a low C/R 3.0. If you want more grunt, get a 3.5, don't mess around with a 3.0 from a Bav. The early engines were much more wear prone too, though I don't know if the block alloy was that much different or if was higher ring tension.

[Scott Bunn]

So, do you think it is worth keeping? I guess it a personal choice either way... I had hoped that it was worth something when I brought it home. Besides just spare parts. I dont want to waste precious storage space for something that will never be used.

[cpalmer]

I'm chiming in on the starter issue. I had a good rant going last week, but then I realized I had mis-read the topic and issues, so my reply was useless...but not this time!

I am no master of these cars, but, I am on my 6th German car right now with a couple other euro's in there, (With my third 5 right now).

I've had starter issues on at least half of them, to the point where two had been replaced my pro mechanics and there was still the "click" and no start. Stranded or push starting are things I now very well....

When checked by mechanics, one time twice, (924), it was- "whelp, everything thing checks out....shout be good to go"

Me- "Well, it's not, and I just paid you to tell me that?".

I've given it much thought over the years and I think it's just a combination of things.

Is it cold wear you are?

Is it hot?

What type of starter is it? Do you know? Age?

Wires?????

I replaced mine last year, (in like 20 minutes thanks to this site), and have since been reminded of this issue as my new starter "sticks". It was a very cheap re-man.

I've been using a lead pipe and hammer to bump it when it's stuck. I recently fell in love with Mystery Oil and checked the wires again and sprayed it all and it's been starting in COLD weather without help for a few weeks. It wasn't that big of a deal anyways as it was pretty random, but I'm ready to do it pronto if there is no turn after the "click"

I know you've said you are no rookie too cars and engines, I personally think that the starters just stick sometimes.....when they are good, unless they are better quality with upgraded wires,( i.e.-thicker) and battery.

I bet it's stuck most likely with bad wiring since you said it was not done ny a trust worthy person who took short cuts.

ALso, there's a good chat on the illustrious "AFM" on my "fixed aux. valve" thread.

Good luck and hope it is starting soon!!

[jkchappy]

I have the "fix" on the AFM from Metric Mechanic.
I agree the starter might be sticking, or the wiring is not quite right. 22 degrees outside right now so I am not going to fuss over the wires at present.
thanks for all input, I have faith when it is all sorted out this will be one fine old ride...

[Mike W.]

So, do you think it is worth keeping? I guess it a personal choice either way... I had hoped that it was worth something when I brought it home. Besides just spare parts. I dont want to waste precious storage space for something that will never be used.

Not really. While my crystal ball is often fuzzy, the only M30 engine from that era I can ever see worth keeping would be something from a CSL. Especially without matching numbers, condition is so much more important than correctness. We're fortunate in a way a 3.5 with a 5 speed is worth more than a 2.8 with a 4. We get to drive better cars that way, even if they aren't worth much. The good and the bad.

[jkchappy]

report for today:
smack starter it is now fine. GOOD
car started right up. GOOD
LOTS of gas in the oil. BAD
LOTS of blow by. BAD
fan clutch shot. not so bad.

I need to change oil and filter. gas in oil might account for oil pressure light.
once oil is changed and fan clutch is replaced back to fine tuning. it is almost there....

going to replace motor mounts at the same time....
cross fingers perhaps road test next week!