Firstfives.org

1)Looks like I have to buy a socket to torque the the cam flange nut. Anyone know the correct size? 36mm is almost but no cigar. Ironically the machine shop cam on the warped head was in better shape than the replacement head cam so I'm using it and wont need the the adapter nut I spent so much time tracking down but I'll hang on to it for next time. 2) I'm paranoid about the timing. Years ago a friend of mine rebuilt a Mercedes 220 six cylinder motor and managed to set the timing 180 degrees out and wrecked the motor! Is it possible to do this on an M30?. I havent read the Faq on setting up the timing yet but I'd like to make sure I've got the cam and crank where they are suposed to be. 3) I'm missing some small gaskets in my kit ie. the 2"x4" 6 hole plate (name?) at the rear of the head....what's the best gasket goop to use here or should cut one out of gasket material? Thx for any input. CK

You really want the right gasket for back there. That's the one that is called the "duck" gasket given it's shape. You also need a special sealing washer for one of the bolts. Getting the right stuff back there is important as it's under some oil pressure and can leak amazing amounts of oil if it's not sealed, and is an absolute bitch to get to with the head installed.

I think the cam nut is 42MM, but I've been known to use a pipe wrench on it, or 16" chanellocks.

Timing, set the crank to TDC and time it. No biggie, but it's gotta be right. Now the distributor can be off, either by a little with no problems except you have to position it differently, or move spark plug cables around but it won't hurt anything, just take more time to set up.

Mike W. wrote:You also need a special sealing washer for one of the bolts.

This is easy to overlook.

I determined which bolt I needed to use an o ring on by squirting air from a compreesed air can down the holes. Turns out it's the upper right hand hole.