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So, I adjusted the throttle body valve, per the FAQ instructions-

I didn't mess with the switch however because it did not look like the one in the Throttle body FAQ.

Now, I can hear the starter click but the car won't start.

............what did I do wrong?

Whatever you did it's unrelated to the throttle body. Just a click suggests either a low battery or bad connections on the battery. Check voltage, fully charged is ~12.6, and remove, clean and replace the battery cables if the voltage is good. I'm assuming the click is coming from the starter?

Oh, if the switch doesn't look right you probably have a 530i, they used a somewhat larger switch assembly in a black plastic housing. The two individual switches were only on 528i's.

so..... you were right on about the battery being dead.
I'm not sure what I did to kill the power but it doesn't matter.

I've got it started up again. Now it runs for about thirty seconds or so,
stumbles and dies. I've given the idle screw on the throttle body a few turns both ways to no avail.

I followed the FAQ, I have a suspicion the valve isn't open enough,
and when I set the idle screw to open it more, there is too much fuel going to the car, but what do I know? I'm new at this.

Per the FAQ, it says to give the idle adjustment one full turn clockwise in order to open the valve a bit, but I think its not enough, I'm not sure though..

Thoughts?

PS: since I've picked this car up, I've noticed something strange.
If I put a little pressure to the top of the AFM, the car seems to run a little different.

What gives?

okay.... unfortunately i won't be able to work on the car for the next two weeks, a little dissapointed I couldn't get it running again.
I can't understand what I may have done with the throttle body that would cause a no-start scenario. I'm starting to think that I did nothing, and that its just a coincidence. I checked combo relay, held AFM door open, etc. and ..............................I think it has something to do with this:

When I first went to pick up the car, it started and then died a few minutes later. It would not restart. Apparently a # 6 fuse blew. This fuse is:
8 amp {white}: combined relay l-jetronic, cold start valve, electric fuel delivery pump. We replaced the fuel and I drove the car an hour and a half drive home. It felt like it was struggling at any incline, like it was about to die if there was a little bit of an upgrade in the road.

I noticed today that fuse blew again. Twice. I changed it again, and still no start.

I read elsewhere that it could be my in-tank fuel pump dying, putting too much stress on the front pump.

I also heard the pump making a buzzing noise with the key in position 2 only.

Any input is appreciated. I hope to get some pics up when this thing is up and running.

Does it sound like the fuel pump?
I'm about to take a look at the ECU; I'm going nuts here.

Did you check the tps?

I opened it up and took a look at it.
It looked clean, so I didn't mess with it.

It is the older 530i single switch, I did not bother adjusting..
I have no idea how.

Does it need adjusting after a throttle body adjustment?
If not, I'd rather leave it alone because the car started up fine before.

I have read something here, I will take another look and see how it goes..

CBradio wrote:I opened it up and took a look at it.
It looked clean, so I didn't mess with it.

It is the older 530i single switch, I did not bother adjusting..
I have no idea how.

Does it need adjusting after a throttle body adjustment?
If not, I'd rather leave it alone because the car started up fine before.

I have read something here, I will take another look and see how it goes..

You can pop the cover off of the Throttle Position Sensor and you will see how it works. Then you can adjust it much like the FAQ recommends.

okay, so I looked up in the BMW work manual how to test the switch---
everything reads zero like it should at the appropriate positions.

I will check fuel pump.

fuel pump seems fine,
I checked the screen it looked clean but I cleaned it anyway.

Car started today, for a second, stumbled, and died.

I did also recently switch to the pertronix, but it started fine after that for atleast a minute.

I'm stumped.

CBradio wrote:I did also recently switch to the pertronix, but it started fine after that for atleast a minute.

What are all of the items that you touched since it last ran normally? Go through that list and rule them out one by one. You will find the problem.

For example, if it ran normally before you installed the pertronix ignition, then either trouble shoot it, or reinstall the stock system as a test.

I will try it out. Somehow I now managed to crack my rotor-
Prior owner had a paper clip retaining the distributor cap,
I'm waiting for another clip in the mail, as well as a rotor....

so everything will have to wait

thanks for everybodys help, it is really appreciated!

where are you located? perhaps someone cllse can give you a hand.

...tom


From: CBradio <gabynyc@hotmail.com>
To: tech_forum <tech_forum@firstfives.org>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 at 2:52 pm
Subject: Re: throttle body adjustment and then no start

fuel pump seems fine,
I checked the screen it looked clean but I cleaned it anyway.

Car started today, for a second, stumbled, and died.

I did also recently switch to the pertronix, but it started fine after that for atleast a minute.

I'm stumped.




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I'm in brooklyn, new york.
I'm hoping once my new rotor and clip come in I can get the thing started.

I noticed now that the makeshift paper clip distributor cap holder the prior owner had only worked well with the cap I replaced- it was filed down a bit so the paper clip was effective, but new cap would come loose = smashed rotor.

I'm hoping the loose cap was the source of my problem, or perhaps the pertronix system I installed.

-------> Does anybody know if I need to do something with that wire that connected to the condenser? Seems it needs to go to a ground, but not sure.

I also noticed the guy before had the wires on the distributor cap NOT in the right order.

All I want to do is work on this car, but unfortunately I have a deadline for work I have to tend to.

Also, if anybody in the future makes the the same newbie mistake I did with SPLITTING APART THE FINE MESH FILTER in the rear fuel pump, a soldering iron does a nice job of putting the pieces back together..

CBradio wrote:I'm in brooklyn, new york.
-------> Does anybody know if I need to do something with that wire that connected to the condenser? Seems it needs to go to a ground, but not sure.

I also noticed the guy before had the wires on the distributor cap NOT in the right order.

I am not familiar with the pertronix, but, assuming that it is like any other electronic ignition update that I've seen, the condenser should not be connected to the ignition anymore. If you are referring to the wire that comes out of the condenser, you can do with it whatever you want, as long as it does not interferes with the ignition.

If the order of the ignition leads was weird (did the car run ok before), I suggest that you check the igniting settings as per FAQ (rotor should be at cyl.1 mark when cyl.1 is in compression), and use a control light to check if the installed pertonix is set correctly.