Firstfives.org

I assume the hazard flasher is suppose to turn all the signals on when you push it in
Well, mine turns on all of the signals when it is half-way in, and when you push it in all the way, the turn signals work. However, if you click it to the full out position the signals do not work at all.....
This can not be right.
Grounding issue????? What do you think?
jm

No admonition intended. To keep from re-inventing the wheel writing- wise, and your having to wait for answers, reading-wise,...

Read over the list of FAQ's for answers to fifteen years of questions. Those not covered can usually be Google Searched from previous posts in the archives.

There is a procedure for removing, dis-assembling, cleaning the hazard switch. Yes, yours needs it.

T.Hanson wrote:No admonition intended. To keep from re-inventing the wheel writing- wise, and your having to wait for answers, reading-wise,...

Read over the list of FAQ's for answers to fifteen years of questions. Those not covered can usually be Google Searched from previous posts in the archives.

There is a procedure for removing, dis-assembling, cleaning the hazard switch. Yes, yours needs it.

I took that switch apart, did the FAQ fix and sent it to him. I am no expert, but I could not see a single problem in that switch. Before I took it apart, it just suffered the typical "not staying in" issue.

While I am not sure if the switch is the culprit, having been in there, I don't see what could cause what you are experiencing. There is only one way to reassemble it.

Now I wish I had tested it in my car first

Wish you luck.

Blaise

thanks for the input, will try the search again. I think the switch might be ok, but have to check all the grounds first. Might just take mine apart and see what gives with it.
thanks again for the help,
jm

Blaise wrote:

T.Hanson wrote:No admonition intended. To keep from re-inventing the wheel writing- wise, and your having to wait for answers, reading-wise,...

Read over the list of FAQ's for answers to fifteen years of questions. Those not covered can usually be Google Searched from previous posts in the archives.

There is a procedure for removing, dis-assembling, cleaning the hazard switch. Yes, yours needs it.

I took that switch apart, did the FAQ fix and sent it to him. I am no expert, but I could not see a single problem in that switch. Before I took it apart, it just suffered the typical "not staying in" issue.

While I am not sure if the switch is the culprit, having been in there, I don't see what could cause what you are experiencing. There is only one way to reassemble it.

Now I wish I had tested it in my car first

Wish you luck.

Blaise

Well, I "fixed" the switch that was in the car. The problem is that I have never been able to make the button sit completely centered, which causes the clock to stay on and power to the radio. Then, it will kill the battery after a while. Betting that's what the problem is.

The switch that was in the car worked fine - turn signals and hazards worked as intended, but as I said, it wouldn't sit without making contact where it shouldn't, so I disconnected the battery while it was sitting. Kept it on a battery minder, too.

I guess you have to 'really' push the connections on ALL the way to make this think work. Put it in and now everything works. I think I just have some junk in the connection.
Whatever it was, I now have signals that work and flashers too:).
jm

Hi guys
Whatever your other problems are; here's the re-build help you need.
On the very first home page, go to 'tech faq', then to 'hazard lights repair', or whatever.
John posted a very nice explanation with pictures. It works.
After you push the button in, it should release just a lil to a stop that's built in.
If it doesn't stop, it because of the pin being bent, and that's because the spring seems too strong for no reason.
John explains & I concur that the spring can be shortened by one coil to relieve the pressure on the pin. Pay attention to his wording, though.
Read the whole thing before diving in. But, it's there.
Good luck,,,,Greg

I have rebuilt them that way for years and they never work. They stay in but something's always making contact.

I bought one and it is working now, but I will try the procedure on the one that was in the car. Always good to have a back up:)
thanks for the information.
jm

There is nothing to try. It's already been done.

Wow Chris! I know you know what you're doin' 'cause you helped me, hands on!
I learned the repair from Don Daynes & then John posted his info.
I now have another one to fix. I'll keep you updated.
BTW, Ireland Engineering is tweaking the oil filter adapter to fit my series 1,
Buster.
I'm guessing their adapter is for the series 2(e-28 based)? It's a lil wider in
diameter than mine.
They have my oil filter mount to use as a template.
I also hope Jeremy keeps the measurements for you series 1 owners.
BTW#2; please explain why the K&N filter is better than the Puralator?
Because, if it's freer flowing, maybe it isn't filtering enough?

I learned the repair back in the late '90s as they are the same as E21s. I haven't had great success.

I don't know what you're talking about with the oil filter.

K&N filters are not very good. I only use Mahle paper filters in all of my cars.

OK, I got carried away & confused.
The oil filter adapter biz shoulda been on the bigcoupe forum!
OOPS, Greg