Firstfives.org

" Unscrew hollow set screw." " Remove grub screw."

All I see is a small plate with what looks like an odd phillips head set screw, impossible to turn with a screwdriver. The slot(s) are not deep at all.

Has anyone replaced the ignition switch, and or the key tumbler to enlighten on the process ? Drilling out, replacing the security bolts.

T.Hanson wrote:" Unscrew hollow set screw." " Remove grub screw."

All I see is a small plate with what looks like an odd phillips head set screw, impossible to turn with a screwdriver. The slot(s) are not deep at all.

Has anyone replaced the ignition switch, and or the key tumbler to enlighten on the process ? Drilling out, replacing the security bolts.

I've always had to drill out the screws.

How large a bit ?

The lock plate is fifty bucks on realoem.

The fracture bolts have circular flat spots in their centers,...not knowing a thing about them, what they look like new, how they work, what size the bolt is, how long it is, soft or carbon steel,...makes " Drill them," a dab brief.

All instructions say only the grub screw needs removal to change switch. Use "Torx,"...fine, except the slots are practically non-existent in the first place.

This WILL be a FAQ !

Never mind.

T.Hanson wrote:
Has anyone replaced the ignition switch, and or the key tumbler to enlighten on the process ? Drilling out, replacing the security bolts.

Yes.

Once I cut slots in what was left of the snap off bolts with a dremel. I removed and re-installed them with a real big flat head screw driver.

T.Hanson wrote: This WILL be a FAQ !

I'm waiting for the FAQ/DIY
My car is slowly turning in to Christine, not starting when I want it to, and trying to start when I am not even in the car..

Here's the deal: It's my fault. I have no business doing what I'm doing, MAJOR dis-assembly. I should own the factory repair manuals, special tools, and an 80's BMW tech should live nextdoor.

Instead, I've been seduced by this board; Mike and Peter, Lenny, et al, I get in way over my head and get mad when Google can't find the problem to solve it.

Ignition switch replacement is a task that the books say things like," Remove grub screw," with no (legible) photo, or what the hell one is. It turns out it's a weeny teeny little thing, countersunk deep in the switch assembly tube on the switch end. Then it got painted red at the factory, to cover the slot. (That requires a jewelers screwdriver to fit.)

Discovering all these things takes four to six hours of frustrated searching. Posting, to get answers like, " I drill mine out."

Thank you very much. But the fact is, nobody owes me nothin,' especially when they work ten hours a day and it ain't their switch.

It turns out 633 switches are different year to year, and different from 528's. A '78 633 switch cannot be replaced unless the whole assembly does indeed get drilled out. The way the wires are soldered on it won't clear the cast steering cover otherwise.

As for a FAQ, the diminishing membership, difference in models, time to photo and write, while I'm up to my Sanford in wires and parts,...who knows ?

T.Hanson wrote:Here's the deal: It's my fault. I have no business doing what I'm doing, MAJOR dis-assembly. I should own the factory repair manuals, special tools, and an 80's BMW tech should live nextdoor.

Instead, I've been seduced by this board; Mike and Peter, Lenny, et al, I get in way over my head and get mad when Google can't find the problem to solve it.

Ignition switch replacement is a task that the books say things like," Remove grub screw," with no (legible) photo, or what the hell one is. It turns out it's a weeny teeny little thing, countersunk deep in the switch assembly tube on the switch end. Then it got painted red at the factory, to cover the slot. (That requires a jewelers screwdriver to fit.)

Discovering all these things takes four to six hours of frustrated searching. Posting, to get answers like, " I drill mine out."

Thank you very much. But the fact is, nobody owes me nothin,' especially when they work ten hours a day and it ain't their switch.

It turns out 633 switches are different year to year, and different from 528's. A '78 633 switch cannot be replaced unless the whole assembly does indeed get drilled out. The way the wires are soldered on it won't clear the cast steering cover otherwise.

As for a FAQ, the diminishing membership, difference in models, time to photo and write, while I'm up to my Sanford in wires and parts,...who knows ?

A rebuild is certainly a lot of work.

Sounds like it would be easier to just swap the columns.