Firstfives.org

I did a search and saw KenB's post about replacing his. (Here: http://www.firstfives.org/bboard/viewtopic.php?t=2617&) I think if the subframe was out of the car I could do that but the threaded rod and homemade press method just burned me in the tight confines of a mounted subframe. I got one side done but the threaded bolt and nut got cross threaded or something and I had to use a grinder to get it out of the car. I think I would like to rent whatever the official tool is for this job but I'm not sure what it might be.

I ruined one of the motorsports bushings too when grinding the mess out so that sucks to have to order another one. My own fault for not getting the correct tool.

Maybe this is the tool, can anyone confirm?

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?a ... 021&CTMP=1

Adam,

I've done this twice using the motorsport bushings. I just used a large threaded I-bolt. Run the bolt through the bushing and secure with the nut. The using an 18 in 1/2 inch breaker bar through the eyelet I pryed against the tie-down hoops and it took about 30 seconds to pop the new bushings in.

...tom

-----Original Message-----
From: Adam W in MN <adw256@gmail.com>
To: tech_forum <tech_forum@firstfives.org>
Sent: Sun, Jan 27, 2013 4:43 pm
Subject: Radius rod bushing, official BMW tool/press?

#AOLMsgPart_1_6e524988-417c-4bdb-938f-ab7ab0105ad0 td{color: black;} I did a search and saw KenB's post about replacing his. I think if the subframe was out of the car I could do that but the threaded rod and homemade press method just burned me in the tight confines of a mounted subframe. I got one side done but the threaded bolt and nut got cross threaded or something and I had to use a grinder to get it out of the car. I think I would like to rent whatever the official tool is for this job but I'm not sure what it might be.

I ruined one of the motorsports bushings too when grinding the mess out so that sucks to have to order another one. My own fault for not getting the correct tool.



Adam Wilson
www.e12m535i.com








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I used the radius rod itself to lever the old bushing out. Takes a little elbow grease.

With the new bushings, i applied lithium grease liberally, located it in the subframe on an angle by hand, then used my foot to push it into the subframe.

As long as the crush tubes aren't in them when you put them in the subframe, there should be enough give to get them in without needing a press.

Thanks guys. I have the old one out which wasn't hard since the old Grunts bushings crumbled into broken bits which necessitated this swap. (pieces of crap ).

On the new Motorsports bushings, the metal sleeve in the center, isn't that molded to the rubber? I didn't think it could be removed like it can on the Grunts bushings and other urethane ones.

The prybar against the tow hook eyelet is a good idea, I never thought of that. I had a long threaded bolt running through the center, using my big old 36mm socket on the backside of the subframe and with some large washers on the back and front side pushing against the bushing. I was able to squeeze it about 3/4 of the way in but I couldn't get the last bit to pop in. I used dishwashing liquid to try to get it to slide in.

Like I said it worked on the driver side, but something about the strain I put on the threaded bolt made it essentially freeze up and I had to cut it out with a grinder.

I used a long threaded bolt and nut from Lowes in their hardware/fastener section so my guess is that it wasn't the highest quality stuff I could have bought. I may need to search for a harder/stronger rod to try this again, with finer threads as well.

Hi Adam, I'm hoping to do the exact same swap next weekend. I'm getting our tool shop at work to make up these two presses/pulls for me:
http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library ... l#refertoc
This is out of the E9 repair manual, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on ours as well. I believe it's the same part for both the E9 and E12.
Like I said, I'll give it a whirl and let you know how it works.
Kevin

Excellent, thanks for the link to those pictures. Want to rent or sell the tool when you're done with it on your car?

Sure no problem. Once I'm done with it I hope that's the last time I ever have to do it.
I'll pm you when I'm done.

Southernboy wrote:Sure no problem. Once I'm done with it I hope that's the last time I ever have to do it.
I'll pm you when I'm done.

Any updates? I could really use it to complete this job.

Sorry for the delay. The guy in our tool dept that was going to make it for me has been out with the flu.
I'm hoping that he will be able to finish it this week, but I'm still not sure.
I'll let you know as soon as the new ones are in.
Cheers, Kevin

Adam W in MN wrote:On the new Motorsports bushings, the metal sleeve in the center, isn't that molded to the rubber? I didn't think it could be removed like it can on the Grunts bushings and other urethane ones.

That's correct. I'm actually using whiteline bushes in mine. I think they're a good cost effective alternative - easy to fit & high quality.

http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4 ... ber=W82868

An update on this, thanks to Kevin and the beautiful tool he had made and then sold to me at his cost (I hope!) I got the 2nd bushing in this weekend in less than 10 minutes. What a great tool!

Car is driveable and on its wheels, for the first time since Fall 2011. Family and life priorities have certainly changed a lot over the years since I first got the car in 2003! Yes, I got it in May 2003, so I've had it 10 years.

I feel old now.

Check out my site for more pics of the car and updates.

http://www.e12m535i.com/

I've done one of these (so far) with a carriage bolt, the big washers from the rod, and a few different short lengths of 1 1/2" (ID) copper pipe. A bit of impact wrench on the bolt nut.

Insertion of new with the setup reversed was greatly aided by dish detergent lube.