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I'm sure some of you guys have dealt with this before. You get the tire off, go to remove the caliper and...it won't move. Not even the slightest budge.

That happened to me last night, and is still happening this morning. I've tried WD-40, tapping it with a hammer, and most recently battery terminal cleaner (since it eats into rust I figured it was worth a try). So far I've made no progress and am open to suggestions or tips you fine gents have for the problem.

I forget, what size is the bolt head?
Can you look at the pads to see how much rear brakes you have left?
There's also an anti-seize spray out there somewhere. Keep tappin' & sprayin'.

GripGreg wrote:I forget, what size is the bolt head?
Can you look at the pads to see how much rear brakes you have left?
There's also an anti-seize spray out there somewhere. Keep tappin' & sprayin'.

Rears are 17mm and front is 19mm. That or someone put the wrong bolts on the car at some point.

There isn't much pad left. Rear rotors don't want to spin so I've got to force the piston open to get the pads to let go (that'll improve fuel economy nicely I think), but the front calipers aren't biting down. For the record the parking brake is off.

Yeah, all 8 bolts are getting a nice coating of anti-seize before they go back in.

About all I can do really I guess. I was just wondering because I'd been reading around and people have used PB Grease (never heard of it), torches and paraffin wax, breaker bars (not really enough room under there unless I get the car onto a lift), torches again, impact wrenches...

It's a long list and it seems to vary a lot from model to model (which makes sense because of the different amounts of space you have to work with, the size of the bolt, and so on), hence why I was hoping that there might be a better way to go about this. I'll keep bang-and-spraying in the mean time though!

Problem Solved. I've gone through a can of WD-40, but it's off, and I've got the discs off too. The front was a lot easier than the rear for just about everything. Weird how that worked.

CONGRATS, DUDE!!
The fronts would be easier 'cause they get changed more often.
Also, take a small wire brush to the bolt threads to eliminate the crud.
Do the pistons work ok?
I heard from my part time mechanic; He's part time for me, but he works at Werkstat West, that it's a bear to bleed the brakes!
What I mean is, it's easier to change to new fluid 'cause you're not lettin' in air.
If you dis-assemble, of course air will be included.
Which you may have to do to hone out the pistons & rebuild the calipers.
Keep in touch,,,,Greg
Ps,,,,What shape are your brake lines in? Keep in touch with your master cylinder!
If you don't change your lines, use a wire coat hanger to hold up the caliper to not put stress on the lines.

GripGreg wrote:CONGRATS, DUDE!!
The fronts would be easier 'cause they get changed more often.
Also, take a small wire brush to the bolt threads to eliminate the crud.
Do the pistons work ok?
I heard from my part time mechanic; He's part time for me, but he works at Werkstat West, that it's a bear to bleed the brakes!
What I mean is, it's easier to change to new fluid 'cause you're not lettin' in air.
If you dis-assemble, of course air will be included.
Which you may have to do to hone out the pistons & rebuild the calipers.
Keep in touch,,,,Greg
Ps,,,,What shape are your brake lines in? Keep in touch with your master cylinder!
If you don't change your lines, use a wire coat hanger to hold up the caliper to not put stress on the lines.

I'm taking a wire brush to the threads and to the hubs to get them cleaned up.

I've got the calipers supported, and they're staying as is. I'm dealing with the pistons tomorrow, and keeping an eye on the master cylinder because I don't want to suddenly end up with no brakes.

I want to go over the calipers when I have a better set-up to do it in.

Now may be a good time to paint the calipers fire engine RED!
Clean with solvent & rinse with Big Orange, then water & spray paint them?
Make sure the paint can says the paint is heat resistant; it doesn't need
much, but a certain amount 'cause calipers do get real warm sometimes.
It'll look real kool!
Watch out for over spray, though.
I suggest you masking tape some newspaper or bags to the vulnerable places.
Like the body & don't paint the lines.
You can do the second coat after about five minutes, so, paint one, then, do the other side, then go back to the first one. Two or three light coats, though.
From different angles. Read the instructions on the can. And use good paint.
Maybe Krylon?
Just a suggestion,,,,Greg

GripGreg wrote:Now may be a good time to paint the calipers fire engine RED!
Clean with solvent & rinse with Big Orange, then water & spray paint them?
Make sure the paint can says the paint is heat resistant; it doesn't need
much, but a certain amount 'cause calipers do get real warm sometimes.
It'll look real kool!
Watch out for over spray, though.
I suggest you masking tape some newspaper or bags to the vulnerable places.
Like the body & don't paint the lines.
You can do the second coat after about five minutes, so, paint one, then, do the other side, then go back to the first one. Two or three light coats, though.
From different angles. Read the instructions on the can. And use good paint.
Maybe Krylon?
Just a suggestion,,,,Greg

An interesting suggestion, but if I'm painting them, they're getting a serious de-gunking bath first. So not this week.

Well, location does play a role, but I always use locktite on caliper mounting bolts, not anti seize. At least ever since I had one come loose. Also, WD40 is not a penetrant, use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. Don't use a non flammable water based penetrant either, they don't seem to work. Liquid Wrench, it's been around for a thousand years and it's still the best, with the possible exception of aero kroil.

Mike W. wrote:Well, location does play a role, but I always use locktite on caliper mounting bolts, not anti seize. At least ever since I had one come loose. Also, WD40 is not a penetrant, use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. Don't use a non flammable water based penetrant either, they don't seem to work. Liquid Wrench, it's been around for a thousand years and it's still the best, with the possible exception of aero kroil.

The thing is the bolts stayed in there....a little too well honestly. The anti-sieze in theory shouldn't cause a problem, but I can see where you're coming from too. I've got some PB Blaster now so that if it happens again I'll be able to solve the problem quicker.

Mike's one of the big dawgs,,,I'm a small dawg!

GripGreg wrote:Mike's one of the big dawgs,,,I'm a small dawg!

Oh I understand completely, but it's one of those things that I've seen a lot of back and forth on if you should anti-seize, Loctite or do nothing at all. Living in the Salt Belt doesn't exactly help either. I've seen a lot of arguments both ways, by mechanics of all types (shade-tree and professional) and there just isn't really a solid answer on what the "right" answer is. I'm going to give the anti-seize a try, and keep a close eye on those bolts. If they start coming loose I'll clean them up and switch to Loctite instead.

Again, always check the FAQ's for the collected wisdom of the ages. In caliper rebuilding II you'll see one of the best tools ever invented: the vice grips fitting grabber. Different jaws than the standard models.

Unbelievably great for avoiding rounding off hex fittings, especially brake related. Those 7mm box wrenches with the side cut out for the bleeders are for brand new, buttery smooth, fresh fluid,...otherwise, instant rounda boogered nub.

I just did a mortified rear caliper. A stuck piston, too late to do it right (if possible), pull the pads, push the pedal to extend the pistons before removing the caliper.

Long story short, rebuilt calipers are about $60 at autopartswarehouse.com. OEM, I've used them, worked great, to make doing it myself kinda goofy.

I agree with Grip for painting. The rebuilts look new until water turned them rust coat.

If you use something other than locktite you should take other measures to insure safety. I would recommend safety wire for the caliper bolts we use this process on the race bikes for everything.......

Jeff Dennis wrote:If you use something other than locktite you should take other measures to insure safety. I would recommend safety wire for the caliper bolts we use this process on the race bikes for everything.......

That's a good bit of advice. That'll ensure they don't come off until I want them too, and when I want them off they'll come off. Thanks.