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Looking at a pic of the control arm it seems that the "balljoint end" is integral with the control arm so you would have to replace the entire control arm to renew OR is just replacing the bushing enough to bring this unit back to new? What else can be done to tighten up the front end? Would it be necessary to replace Set Rubber mountings 31121123552? Stabalizer bar bushings look OK.

canada karl wrote:Looking at a pic of the control arm it seems that the "balljoint end" is integral with the control arm so you would have to replace the entire control arm to renew OR is just replacing the bushing enough to bring this unit back to new? What else can be done to tighten up the front end? Would it be necessary to replace Set Rubber mountings 31121123552? Stabalizer bar bushings look OK.

Yeah, the ball joints kind of force your hand to buy the entire control arm if you want it all renewed. There was once a kit I think just for renewal of the ball joint boots, but it's NLA.

I just finished rebuilding the entire front suspension. I went after all ball joints and anything rubber, especially if original. The list: both control arms, both tie rods, center tie rod, all sway bar bushings and HW, and the radius rod bushings (P/N you listed). I skipped the idler arm bushing only because I had done mine already a few years back.

It's a pretty big job. I went so far as to remove the subframe and powder coat it. You'll need quite a few special tools for all the press fit stuff too. Almost every ball joint seems to demand a different separator tool because of access issues. The Peter Florance style threaded rod and pipe homemade stuff handles the rad rod bushings, but I found the press in to be much trickier than removal.

Thx for the info Robert. What kind of specialty tools would I need to remove the bushings other than the rad rod ones? What do they look like ,where can they be obtained and can they be fabricated DIY? Thx Karl

canada karl wrote:Thx for the info Robert. What kind of specialty tools would I need to remove the bushings other than the rad rod ones? What do they look like ,where can they be obtained and can they be fabricated DIY? Thx Karl

Karl,
The other specialty stuff is actually sort of common place, but it's awfully easy to be just a lit off in size/shape and it not work. I'm referring to various ball joint and tie rod separators and pullers.

There are 8 front ball joints total. I got all of them except the one connecting the control arm to the steering arm because the lock nut is nicely buried in a recess. I ended up taking the arms (connected together, but off the car) to a local BMW shop to have them popped.

Robert...

I will need to change my wishbone/control arm soon. Can you tell me if there is a specific make we should focus on? Is there a load balance involved? Can I simply lift car, remove and replace?

Do you happen to have torque?

Appreciate the help!

My question: After what I know was a long and arduous process, did your driving experience, the feel of the car make you exclaim, " Eureka !, fantastic incredible what they are like new !"

Or, if I'm not seeing any visible rubber deterioration, no looseness in the tie rods or center link, no clunks, rattles, and the steering is positive, no tech advisories during the last alignment,...what am I missing.

Well I took a look at the rubber bushings on my car and they didn't look all that bad. The stabilizer rod bolt bushings were in bad shape and need replacing but other than that I think I'm going to leave things the way they are. However with the front of the car off the ground there is a little play in the front wheels when I grab the wheels at top and bottom and rock the wheel. Wonder if this is normal or how much play there is too much?

shebuilt wrote:Robert...

I will need to change my wishbone/control arm soon. Can you tell me if there is a specific make we should focus on? Is there a load balance involved? Can I simply lift car, remove and replace?

Do you happen to have torque?

Appreciate the help!

I got my control arm pair from Bavarian Autosport. They were Moog. Quality looked pretty decent to me. RockAuto seems to have the same Moogs for less.

No load balance problems. With the car lifted, you can proceed to "simply" removed suspension items. However, recommended procedure is to put a specific load in the car with wheels on the ground for final torque on a few of the joints - this gets really tough to do unless you're in a shop with a serious lift to still allow room to turn your torque wrench.

Don't have the specs in front of me - most of the stuff was 60ish ft-lbs.

T.Hanson wrote:My question: After what I know was a long and arduous process, did your driving experience, the feel of the car make you exclaim, " Eureka !, fantastic incredible what they are like new !"

Or, if I'm not seeing any visible rubber deterioration, no looseness in the tie rods or center link, no clunks, rattles, and the steering is positive, no tech advisories during the last alignment,...what am I missing.

I was trying to correct a ride that was way too rough - like every pothole threatening to crack your dash in half sort of feel.

I'm fairly pleased with the results (front and back suspension redone over last 2 years). The ride now gives a good connection to the road, but without the harshness. Since my rebuilds were so thorough, it's hard to say which part replacements really made the difference.

canada karl wrote:Well I took a look at the rubber bushings on my car and they didn't look all that bad. The stabilizer rod bolt bushings were in bad shape and need replacing but other than that I think I'm going to leave things the way they are. However with the front of the car off the ground there is a little play in the front wheels when I grab the wheels at top and bottom and rock the wheel. Wonder if this is normal or how much play there is too much?

That play often suggests wear in the bearings. You might give them a closer inspection.

Robert Bondi wrote:That play often suggests wear in the bearings. You might give them a closer inspection.

Or worn tie rod ends. Mine were worn where the outer arms meet the centre, with the car off the ground there was ~ 5mm play when rocking the wheel.
This also caused the car to shimmy under brakes - not fun!

Robert. What's the theory behind torquing the wheel bearing to 24 ft lbs then backing it off completely to only finger tight? ....seems counterintuitive.......won't the bearing work it's way out till stopped by the nut and cotter pin?

canada karl wrote:Robert. What's the theory behind torquing the wheel bearing to 24 ft lbs then backing it off completely to only finger tight? ....seems counterintuitive.......won't the bearing work it's way out till stopped by the nut and cotter pin?

Karl,
I haven't done this job myself in a while. I think the idea behind torquing down the castle nut is an elegant way to push the bearings in so they seat nicely and excess grease can slowly escape in a uniform fashion (while turning hub) without leaving random voids. Since the axle threads are there to use, this is a more elegant solution than tapping in the bearings.

The torque value does seem a little arbitrary since it's temporary. The FAQ has 24 ft-lbs, but my 77 blue factory manual shows 7 ft-lbs.