As I near my M30B34 euro conversion (5 speed too) first fire up, I am wondering what kind of oil I will run in it.
This is a motor that was rebuilt less than 10k miles ago, so is broken in, but fresh.
I usually run mobil 1 synthetic in my vehicles.
Input appreciated.
Mobil 1 recommends 0W40, but that seems rather light to me.
Engine oil choice
Engine oil choice
1977 BMW 530i
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
You can do a Google search of previous discussions on the subject.
My stock 2.8's, 60,000, 150,000 get Napa, Valvoline spec 10/40, changed every 3,000. Unless I remember a thousand late.
Works fine, no problems, smoke, noise, but I drive all nice and quiet and the cars are just daily drivers. Probably if I had your car, engine I might think I should buy fancier labels on the bottles.
My stock 2.8's, 60,000, 150,000 get Napa, Valvoline spec 10/40, changed every 3,000. Unless I remember a thousand late.
Works fine, no problems, smoke, noise, but I drive all nice and quiet and the cars are just daily drivers. Probably if I had your car, engine I might think I should buy fancier labels on the bottles.
There is more to oil than thickness to be sure, but... clearances and other things were designed for 20-50. I might go 10-50 or 20-40 or 15-40, maybe even 10-40, but nothing thinner. 20-50 is spec'd for a very wide temperature range. Many M30s, more 3.5s, but still, many M30s have gone 300K on 20-50. 0-40 even with synthetic is way too thin.
Mike W.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
That was my thought too. I will likely run a 20W50.Mike W. wrote:There is more to oil than thickness to be sure, but... clearances and other things were designed for 20-50. I might go 10-50 or 20-40 or 15-40, maybe even 10-40, but nothing thinner. 20-50 is spec'd for a very wide temperature range. Many M30s, more 3.5s, but still, many M30s have gone 300K on 20-50. 0-40 even with synthetic is way too thin.
1977 BMW 530i
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
I thinked a lot, before I decided to post my reply...
I know - some of you will say - it is unduly.
I use Selenia 10W60 fully syntetic in my Euro M30B28.
I'm "in a hurry" to say - I did this after an engine overhaul.
As a first step I used some Shell semi-syntetic - I even didn't remember it's "numbers", because it was only for a initial run-in period.
After maybe 800 km (500 miles) I switched to fully syntetic.
There were two benefits I've noticed:
1. With the first oil, at hot weather and heavy engine load - the needle of the temperature gauge went somewhere to one or one and a half o'clock.
After the transition to fully syntetic this issue disappeared - at the same circumstances the needle was nailed to 12 o'clock.
2. Without any doubt - better and faster engine start at cold weather (-15 degrees Celsius).
I know - some of you will say - it is unduly.
I use Selenia 10W60 fully syntetic in my Euro M30B28.
I'm "in a hurry" to say - I did this after an engine overhaul.
As a first step I used some Shell semi-syntetic - I even didn't remember it's "numbers", because it was only for a initial run-in period.
After maybe 800 km (500 miles) I switched to fully syntetic.
There were two benefits I've noticed:
1. With the first oil, at hot weather and heavy engine load - the needle of the temperature gauge went somewhere to one or one and a half o'clock.
After the transition to fully syntetic this issue disappeared - at the same circumstances the needle was nailed to 12 o'clock.
2. Without any doubt - better and faster engine start at cold weather (-15 degrees Celsius).