Falkenberg wrote:According to this: http://forum.bmwland.ru/index.php?act=a ... st&id=6521
it should be 5V.
The 5V should be coming from the ECU, so if you have 12V there, either there is a terrible mistake in your wiring, or the ECU is defect / not the right one.
If your WOT is not working, than that might explain why the mixture leans out..
LE: according to this site: the 35-pinmotronic (1.0?) also used 5V signals to the TPS.
The TPS wires come straight out of the ECU without incidence. I measured the voltage right out of the ECU at 11.15volts. I tried with a spare ECU (179) and got the same results.
But your links sure point out that it should be 5Volts. Sounds like I may have two bad ECU's. What are the chances?
It would be great if someone running a 179 ECU could check their voltage before I go buy another ECU.
I am not sure if this is an issue, but I forgot to mention that the harness and ECU came from a 1990 735i (E32) automatic. That car came with a 6 wire TPS (potentiometer).
When I unplug the TPS at idle...the idle jumps up about 500 rpms. This tells me that the ECU is getting an IDLE signal from the TPS.
I am beginning to think that the 11.15V is normal. Maybe for the automatic cars.
Last edited by Blaise on Wed Sep 09, 2015 11:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
wkohler wrote:Blaise - send me an email. I will reply with the .pdf
Thanks Chris, that article is likely the answer to my question.
In it, it points to the TPS voltage being in and around 12 volts. I ran through all of the tests listed and passed them all. Except that with the ignition off, I get 2.4V, while the article shows 12V. I doubt that is an issue, as the running volts are all correct.
I guess my system uses 12 volts at the TPS.
Also, Anthony agreed to check his out...so will have confirmation in the next couple of days.
Last edited by Blaise on Wed Sep 09, 2015 12:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just to be sure that my systems are working as they should, I did a little more testing.
I hooked up a voltmeter to the TPS idle signal and another to the TPS WOT signal. Then I went for a drive.
At idle, I get voltage to the WOT wire (this is how it works) and at WOT I get voltage to the idle wire. At cruising (part throttle), I get voltage to both wires. In my case I get battery voltage, though the amperage is very low.
I also checked to see if the harness had any power with the ECU disconnected, battery hooked up and ignition on. It did not. Just making sure nothing was feeding into the wires.
This may be of little interest, but here are a few short vids that I tried to shoot of my meters, while driving. Pretty shaky at best. Definitely boring stuff.
IDLE:
PARTIAL THROTTLE:
WOT:
Basically does what it should.
Then I tested the fuel pressure. Likewise, I wanted to see it running, so I ran the gauge out the hood and duct taped it to my windshield. It was a funny scene for sure.
While driving, I get a range from 34 (2.34bar) psi to 45 psi (3.10bar).
At idle, I get 37 psi (2.55bar) with the vacuum line on and 46 (3.17bar) psi with it removed.
My pressure regulator is rated at 43.5 psi (3bar). This is standard for a 1990 735i, or even an early M5.
I think that my fuel pressure is correct.
At this point, I feel safe concluding that all my systems work as they should and my problematic dyno run result was due to a faulty AFM.
Last edited by Blaise on Wed Sep 09, 2015 11:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
I suppose that all that depends on the software that is running on the Miller chip. That should be the brain that is controlling the Motronic hardware now.
You should be able to address questions like these to Miller or to a specialized forum.
My guess is that it is still adjusting. That is what closed-loop control is supposed to do. In your fuel delivery tables you should put some numbers that are very close to what the car needs, and then the closed-loop should tune those to the perfect values.
Maybe there is a setting somewhere in software for disabling the closed-loop control. Then you can tune your car, and when you have found the best settings, you can enable closed-loop again. Although a very well tuned car might run fine also without the use of closed-loop control.
1961 Simson AWO sport (Brasoveanca)
1968 BMW 114 2002
1976 BMW E12 528 (Malèna)
1987 Kawasaki GPz900r
1996 Moto Guzzi V75 PA NT
it's an old topic, but just to share my pinging issue experience on 10:1 CR M30B34 with 179 ECU
The pinging at low RPMs under high lowds, is beacause of the difference in CR, I mean 179 came from M30b35 with 9:1 CR, and our M30b34 engines are 10:1.
1 unit CR difference is quite big for Motronic to adjust it.
Ignition timing should be changed.
I'm playing now with this, still not very good results, but after retarding with 5 degree in High Lowd map, it's response quicker at acceleration.
And idles are at about 700-750 now.
