Broken bottom Water Pump Bolt!
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canada karl
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:50 pm
Broken bottom Water Pump Bolt!
I was changing out the water pump. All the hold down bolts came out except for the bottom one which was frozen from corrosion. The bolt is broken but there is still 1/2" of threaded rod sticking out. I soaked the area with penetrating oil and left it overnight. I tried "double nutting" the piece that was sticking out but with a lot of pressure there was no movement in the bolt and I didn't want to break the threaded stud part that was sticking out in case there was another way to remove it. I'm not sure you can get an "easy out" kit that small???....only alternative would be to break the bolt clean at the pump face,drill out the remaining bolt and retap the hole to a larger size. BUT...what if I used JB weld or similar on the remaining bolt stud and tightened down the other bolts.....would the stud and the JB hold the bottom part of the pump along with the strength of the other bolts so that there would be no leaks???? Any ideas or am I going to have to drill and tap?
1976 530i. BMW 59 Triumph TR3A(rolling resto). 67 Triumph TR4A(salvageable). 86 900S Winter car
Take more suggestions.
If you have anything to grab,(with a vice grips) consider yourself golden lucky. The person who coined the term, "EZ out," should be shot. If at all possible do not go there, do anything that requires drilling a buried stub, etc.
As long as you have anything protruding to grab, keep working with the penetrating oil. See if you can get the stud to move in either direction to begin wiggling it.
A good trick with a steel stud stuck in aluminum is a hand held butane torch from the hardware store. The aluminum heats and expands faster than the steel.
That said, review the common sense procedures for shooting fire in the vicinity of rubber hoses, fuel lines, wiring, etc. It's possible to adjust the torch flame to fairly small, but it don't take much to make things exciting.
When you've won, do clean all the bolt threads and use anti-seize on them for assembly.
If you have anything to grab,(with a vice grips) consider yourself golden lucky. The person who coined the term, "EZ out," should be shot. If at all possible do not go there, do anything that requires drilling a buried stub, etc.
As long as you have anything protruding to grab, keep working with the penetrating oil. See if you can get the stud to move in either direction to begin wiggling it.
A good trick with a steel stud stuck in aluminum is a hand held butane torch from the hardware store. The aluminum heats and expands faster than the steel.
That said, review the common sense procedures for shooting fire in the vicinity of rubber hoses, fuel lines, wiring, etc. It's possible to adjust the torch flame to fairly small, but it don't take much to make things exciting.
When you've won, do clean all the bolt threads and use anti-seize on them for assembly.
M6 stud remover, sir. That's all you need.
Google it. Buy it. Attach it to a ratchet and spin it out.
(This assumes you've got a bit of stud to grab on to. Don't need much.)
If you snap it off flush, a small drill bit and right hand screw extractors will get it done with some care. (If you can fit a drill in that space.)
KenB
Google it. Buy it. Attach it to a ratchet and spin it out.
(This assumes you've got a bit of stud to grab on to. Don't need much.)
If you snap it off flush, a small drill bit and right hand screw extractors will get it done with some care. (If you can fit a drill in that space.)
KenB
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alotawatts
- Posts: 438
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 3:52 am
- Location: Seattle WA
It's broken, but with a stub sticking out. Considering, that's as good as it gets. Heat, liquid wrench, repeat. Tap on it some with a hammer, you might be able to loosen some of the rust that way. Not wail on it, firm, but not real hard. Then take a vice grips to it. Rock it back and forth. I think the odds are in your favor.
Yes, there are easy outs that small, but if it's in that tight they won't do any good, you'll just break it off and be in even worse shape. If you snap the stub off, just drill it and tap it. And use liberal application of anti seize on reinstallation.
If it just isn't happening and you don't want to drill and tap, I'd use some hardening type Permatex to effectively glue the water pump on ignoring that bolt. Don't try epoxy, that won't do you any good.
Yes, there are easy outs that small, but if it's in that tight they won't do any good, you'll just break it off and be in even worse shape. If you snap the stub off, just drill it and tap it. And use liberal application of anti seize on reinstallation.
If it just isn't happening and you don't want to drill and tap, I'd use some hardening type Permatex to effectively glue the water pump on ignoring that bolt. Don't try epoxy, that won't do you any good.
Mike W.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
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canada karl
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:50 pm
success
I took two M6 nuts and threaded them on to the broken stud(I had tried this before using castellated nuts but they were weak and stripped out)...I tightened the two nuts tight against each other then put the wrench on the inner one and turned the stud out. I preheated the pump casting around the stud with a propane torch prior to this. Glad it came out as it looks like a bitch to try to tap and drill. 
1976 530i. BMW 59 Triumph TR3A(rolling resto). 67 Triumph TR4A(salvageable). 86 900S Winter car