Big brass screw currently five turns out, as removed from the car. After doing the Peter throttle body clean, shine, adjust, is there a recommended setting to start from ?
I.e., engine reassembled, basic settings to allow start up for further adjusting everything.
Throttle bypass screw setting
Leave it where it's at, the worst that can happen is it will idle too fast and you can adjust it then.
Mike W.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
-
brotherhay
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 11:40 am
Just out of curiousity, what should the idle be at?
Seems either the idle switch, or something is goofy on mine. AFter driving the car for a bit, if i put it in park, it will idle at 1200. If i just start it and let it run it will start around 1200, warm up, then drop to about 850 (where I initially set it to). Something seems strange there, bad idle switch maybe?
Seems either the idle switch, or something is goofy on mine. AFter driving the car for a bit, if i put it in park, it will idle at 1200. If i just start it and let it run it will start around 1200, warm up, then drop to about 850 (where I initially set it to). Something seems strange there, bad idle switch maybe?
That's typical from my experience. Now that it's warm outside, once up to temp, mine idles at 850, book perfect but I like it higher. No reason other than 850 seems lazy, lumpy.
Setting the idle is a daisy chain of set up procedures. Mostly tune up details: Checking all grounds ( brown wire connections, braided straps ), vacuum and rubber pieces, dip stick, to ensure no leaks. Then do the timing FAQ, then the throttle body. Distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires all count if not up to like new specs.
The idle switch needs the throttle body to be set up right. Loosen the two phillips screws on the Y shaped flat plate and rotate the plate until the idle switch clicks. Tighten the two screws. The idea is for the throttle butterfly shaft, little cam foot, to click the idle throttle switch (off) just as it closes.
If it clicks off too soon it kills the fuel flow, causing jerky off throttle response. Referred to as, " Trailer hitching."
Setting the idle is a daisy chain of set up procedures. Mostly tune up details: Checking all grounds ( brown wire connections, braided straps ), vacuum and rubber pieces, dip stick, to ensure no leaks. Then do the timing FAQ, then the throttle body. Distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires all count if not up to like new specs.
The idle switch needs the throttle body to be set up right. Loosen the two phillips screws on the Y shaped flat plate and rotate the plate until the idle switch clicks. Tighten the two screws. The idea is for the throttle butterfly shaft, little cam foot, to click the idle throttle switch (off) just as it closes.
If it clicks off too soon it kills the fuel flow, causing jerky off throttle response. Referred to as, " Trailer hitching."
Quick question: I always assumed on this car (automatic) there is like a 200 rpm spread in idle speed depending on whether Im in gear
Ie:
Idle in park is 1000
Idle in drive goes down to 800
Is this not normal?
Ive noticed the size of the "spread" can change, depending on timing.
If its normal, how much is normal?
Now that Im almost on the road again, trying to figure why my engine shakes at idle. Many people talk about oxygen sensors, but I dont have that that...
Ie:
Idle in park is 1000
Idle in drive goes down to 800
Is this not normal?
Ive noticed the size of the "spread" can change, depending on timing.
If its normal, how much is normal?
Now that Im almost on the road again, trying to figure why my engine shakes at idle. Many people talk about oxygen sensors, but I dont have that that...
1977 530ia