Alternator upgrade to 80 amp

[anthony]

I have collected enough parts to actually start my slow transition to my m30b35 engine. First step is install motronic 1.3 on current m30b34. This would prove that my work on the engine harness, from 88 528e, works. Wires need to be lengthened to fit the engine compartment, in addition to wiring into the E12 fuse box. Part of this process involves swapping out the harmonic balancer and air intake manifold. I have all the parts so it gives me something to do. I don’t expect it to improve performance but it shouldn’t make it worse either.

I want to update the alternator to 80amp, which requires a new supporting bracket (which can only be done by removing the harmonic balancer).

Does this bracket support the e12 power steering pump? I compared pumps on realoem and I think it does.

www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model= ... g=12&fg=21

www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model= ... g=32&fg=15

www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model= ... g=32&fg=15

[T.Hanson]

I'm an electric zero. Electricity is in the battery, where it sits, slowly being used by the clock and any small mouse appliances. On start up the alternator spins, makes electricity for the spark plugs and refills the battery to the top.

I don't know how many amps a stock alternator features. I do know, of Ohms, Volts, Watts and Amps, Amps are the ones that can make a big blue flash, twitching and smoke, so I should be careful touching those.

If my car runs fine with a stock alternator, what is the advantage of one with presumably larger amplitude ?

[DMS]

I use stock 525 brackets, altenator and steering pump on my M30B35 with harmonic balancer etc. It's fine to use it like this unless you have lots of audio in your car. I run huge injectors, an additional motormanagement etc. So power request for the engine only is largely increased but all works fine.

[thomas_m535i]

I use stock 525 brackets, altenator and steering pump on my M30B35 with harmonic balancer etc. It's fine to use it like this unless you have lots of audio in your car. I run huge injectors, an additional motormanagement etc. So power request for the engine only is largely increased but all works fine.

A bit off topic, but what kind of injectors do you use for your project E12?

[anthony]

I'm an electric zero. Electricity is in the battery, where it sits, slowly being used by the clock and any small mouse appliances. On start up the alternator spins, makes electricity for the spark plugs and refills the battery to the top.

I don't know how many amps a stock alternator features. I do know, of Ohms, Volts, Watts and Amps, Amps are the ones that can make a big blue flash, twitching and smoke, so I should be careful touching those.

If my car runs fine with a stock alternator, what is the advantage of one with presumably larger amplitude ?

I goggled electricity they can explain it better than I. Basically with the Wiper, lights and the fan they draw more current then is produced. The battery makes up the difference but by this time the voltage is down to 12.4. Ok It has been working fine. But, there is another reason. The bushing that between the alternator and the bracket(on the current E12) wears down and the alternator is no longer parallel with the block. This means that the belt is not perpendicular to the alternator. I purchased those red polyurethane bushings form Bavaria online. The updated bracket does not allow this to happen.

[DMS]

I use stock 525 brackets, altenator and steering pump on my M30B35 with harmonic balancer etc. It's fine to use it like this unless you have lots of audio in your car. I run huge injectors, an additional motormanagement etc. So power request for the engine only is largely increased but all works fine.

A bit off topic, but what kind of injectors do you use for your project E12?

I use Keihin low amp injectors for the LPG system and have green tops 440cc mounted at the moment for petrol but I think they will not supply enough so I've a set of siemens 880 cc's ready to go in. But I'm far from starting the engine at the moment.

[anthony]

I have done what said. The e12 hydraulic steering pump does not fit the one piece bracket. I installed the e28 hydraulic power steering pump. Just have to connect high pressure and then I'll have power steering. The higher amp output, I swear, has improved engine performance. The crank sensor bracket and sensor, that reads off the m30b35 harmonic balancer, are installed-along with the balancer, and is ready for the next step of conversion.

The e12 air conditioner bracket conflicts with the crank sensor bracket. I will install the e28 a/c.

[onovakind67]

I installed a GM CS130 105A alternator in my 72 Bav. The old Bosch one was going out, and I discovered that a GM alternator will bolt right in. I had to drill out the adjustment hole to allow the lower bolt to thread in properly, and it has worked flawlessly for about two years. $22 from Pick-n-Pull for the alternator.

[scarey]

I really like the idea of the GM alternator. For me, it solves two problems:

1. On my '73 Bav that I am switching to Motronic, I want to switch to an internally regulated alternator.

2. With the Bavaria oil pan and B35 brackets, there is no lower mount for the power steering.

So, I would need a B34 brackets with new ps pump and alternator. The GM solution is much cheaper. With the GM alternator, I can use my old Bav mounts and PS pump with the new alternator.

I went to the yard today and was overwhelmed by the amount of GM alternators lying around. I believe that the one you have is from an early '90s Lumina type car? There is a difference in the cases around the starting around 1993.

So, what years/cars am I looking for?

Does anyone know which post the blue wire hooks up to?

Thanks,
Scott

Edit: The internet is great. Found answers to all of the questions that I was asking!

[Mike W.]

The e12 air conditioner bracket conflicts with the crank sensor bracket. I will install the e28 a/c.

You need the bracket off a 633 or 733 thru about 83 or so. Those have the longer throw crank with the larger diameter harmonic balancer, but still use the swashplate A/C compressor. The bracket is similiar, but hold the two up to each other and there's a difference. IMO the early A/C compressor E12s used is a much better one. Smoother, longer lasting and fewer leaks. Win Win Win.

[onovakind67]

There are basically two mounting styles for the GM CS130's, one has 180° opposed mounting holes, and the other is roughly 120°. You want the 120° one that comes on many 90's FWD cars. I've got a Pick-n-Pull about 5 miles from my house, so I just browse through the cars until I find one that looks good.

You will also want to get the v-belt pulley off an earlier model alternator, as most of the CS130's have a serpentine belt drive.

The blue wire goes to the L connection on the alternator plug.

http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage3.htm

[CBradio]

This seems like a good idea.

Just for clarification, you widened hole for the adjustment bolt on the alternator, not the slot on the bracket?

Do you think instead of the drilling i can find a suitable bolt at the hardware store?

Any other work involved?
Im assuming you had to change the pulley too.

[onovakind67]

Here's a link to an e9coupe thread where I spell out the part numbers:

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread ... ight=delco

I don't recall specifically the minor adjustments to the bracket or the bolts I used, but it was pretty simple.

[Robert Bondi]

I made a pretty thorough post on this topic last year. Replies at the time got bogged down on the function of an alternator rather than the support bracket itself.

http://www.firstfives.org/bboard/viewto ... highlight=