Firstfives.org

Oh boy, Pandoras' (steering) Box... lol. The center tie rod can be separated from the pitman arm without taking the rest apart. The trick is separating that joint and saving the protective rubber boot and the socket part of the ball joint. I have a BMW ball joint press that works great on the tie ...

Yes, the adjuster screw on the top with the locking nut. I'm not sure of it's name really...

From years ago, the best I can remember it... I disconnected the center tie rod from the pitman arm on the steering box. My worm gear adjustment screw was not all the way tight, just allowing a tiny amount of slack. By grabbing onto the pitman arm and wiggling it back and forth, I could feel the ...

Two things I found on my own car that caused slack in the steering are the rubber coupling disc that connects the steering shaft with the steering box in the engine compartment. I also had a very small slack in the spline shaft that allows the telescoping function of the steering wheel. Have you ...

HI Domingo - I had a chirp in the a/c blower. I used some tri-flow with the little tube that would just reach the bearing on the other side of the squirrel cage through the console vent. Passenger side. Couple of drops made it quiet. So I know at least that one bearing is possible to oil without ...

I have not replaced my bushings here yet just because of this. I believe that the subframe must be lowered in order to do this operation. I'm going to find out soon for sure :wink:

Maybe someone else who has done it can say how far one has to go: is it possible to loosen the subframe bolts and get ...

I can't say why your car is having this problem, but I can say something about the platinum plugs. The problem with these and old cars is that they tend to foul because the fuel injection and ignition are not as efficient and tightly controlled as newer cars with digital electronics. But more than ...

That's great. I like how you did it. Way to go.

Well, now it's time to have a little fun. There are two ways to get back your timing. One is explained in the FAQ section with nice pictures and involves removing the valve cover.

Cylinder #1 needs to be at Top Dead Center and on it's compression stroke. The Camshaft rotates at half the Crankshaft ...

T. Hanson, I have read so many of your posts about this issue because I have been struggling with similar drivability problems with my 81 528. For YEARS. I know mine are more than just the idle switch, but that part was troublesome for me for a long time and to this DAY does not feel all that smooth ...

Haha. I did not notice the small print at the Autoplicity site - sketchy looking site anyway. Rock Auto also has them for $3.85 and that is a good place to buy from.

Oh, so there are super plus and silber? OK - well I don't know what is up with the description, but most places don't seem clear. Super plus and silber... are they both "WR9DS" but one is more expensive with silver? I hope someone can clear this up. I'm confused.

Wow. That's a large price. I need to replace mine with the cap and rotor and valve adjustment that are somewhat overdue...

Are they these?
http://autoplicity.com/products/2219710-bosch_wr9ds__spark_plug___pack_of_1.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=2219710NOFITMENT&utm_campaign ...

I have wondered about this also. I have the later e28 style on my 81 528. I installed it about 50,000 miles ago to replace the previous one that was the same. Don't remember who made it. I don't have a spacer. Now I will check to see that there is no bumping for sure. Mine is 2/81 build date. Does ...

I love locks. I have keyed all my e12 locks. It has been a while ago, but I'll give it to you like I remember:

Look at the key - the deepest cut is a #4, shallow most cut is #1. By looking at the wafers you have, try to match them to the profile of the key.
Numbers are repeated in order. Said ...