brake caliper rebuilding?

joe_keefer · Post by **joe_keefer** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:42 am

hi guys,

i`m having a hard time deciding on wether to rebuild my own brake calipers, or buy rebuilt ones. my 79`s brakes are dragging to the point that it will only rool about 50-60 feet from 10ish mph. now it`s all 4 dragging to some extent, and 2 worse than others. the brakes have been bled very well several times while trying to loosen the calpiers up.

i have them freed up some from when i got it, but it`s bad enough that the faster i go the more they drag. i assume from getting hot? so this coupled with a very tired 500k mile motor thats missing #6 untill about 2500 rpms. i need to do something quickly.

so if anyone has some calipers and maybe a spare 3.5l m30 laying around. lol. anyway opinions are just fine. any help will greatly appreciated.

thanks much!

Blaise · Post by **Blaise** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 12:47 pm

Joe:

Rebuilding calipers takes time to do properly. The rebuild kits are also not cheap. If your calipers are sticking to that point, there is a chance the bores are corroded enough to at least need honing, in which case you would have to split the cases. I recently dealt with a dragging caliper on my girlfriend's jeep cherokee. It was acting much like you describe, but in her case, the piston had cracked.

While I am not trying to discourage you from rebuilding them, you should be aware of what is involved. If you are looking to do something quick, go with rebuilt calipers.

joe_keefer · Post by **joe_keefer** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:06 pm

Blaise wrote:Joe:

Rebuilding calipers takes time to do properly. The rebuild kits are also not cheap. If your calipers are sticking to that point, there is a chance the bores are corroded enough to at least need honing, in which case you would have to split the cases. I recently dealt with a dragging caliper on my girlfriend's jeep cherokee. It was acting much like you describe, but in her case, the piston had cracked.

While I am not trying to discourage you from rebuilding them, you should be aware of what is involved. If you are looking to do something quick, go with rebuilt calipers.

thank you much! i read further and saw your rebuild post. great job! yeah they`re sticking while clamping. the wierd thing is that if i press the pedal they clamp even harder(like they should) and release to where they are normaly stuck at.

they were much worse. i couldn`t move the wheel by hand. now i can rotate the disk with a little effort. i tapped on the calipers behind the pistons and that freed them up. so if i think that through, you`re probably right. bores are likely rusty. the car sat for 5ish years in a semi costal climate so it wouldn`t surprize me.

the conflict i`m having is my 88 range rover is having overheating issues. i was hoping that i could do the brakes on my e12 and give her a quick tune up and drive it while working on my rover. now i think i may have to just fix the rover and then buy the calipers as money permits. that said i will search the local scrap yard first. i haven`t found much here in the portland area though.

thank you!

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 2:25 pm

Don't forget to eliminate the rubber brake lines themselves as part of the problem, I actually had the opposite problem on a Bav, where they wouldn't pass fluid, but I've heard of them causing sticking calipers.

And I will throw out a second opinion on rebuilding calipers. I think it's a fairly easy job, a little dirty, but not too bad, and not expensive either. Under $15 each at Autohaus and half that at Rockauto, albiet with possibly expensive shipping charges.

Blaise · Post by **Blaise** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 2:29 pm

Maybe pick up some replacement flex lines and install to see if there is a difference. If not, then pull the worst caliper off and take it apart to see what you have. Then decide which path to take.

joe_keefer · Post by **joe_keefer** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:48 pm

Blaise wrote:Maybe pick up some replacement flex lines and install to see if there is a difference. If not, then pull the worst caliper off and take it apart to see what you have. Then decide which path to take.

definitly, thats where i think i`m at. the radiator for the rover will take 3-4 days at the shop to have it cleaned right. so thats out. so i think that`s a good idea. no matter what they need to come off. so it isn`t gonna hurt to take one apart and look. i saw a few good used sets on ebay. worst case i will buy them. then rebuild them. mesa performance has a set of dot stainless lines for $110. if i replace the lines i will buy stainless over rubber. they`ve got the rebuild kits also for a fair price also. i just wish there was a place here in portland that had all of this stuff. oh well, i guess thats why i have an e12 and not a honda.

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:18 pm

If you are loosening, removing brake line connectors, do purchase the special vice grips. ( See photo in FAQ's ). Not the jagged jaw type, they have an angle top, curve lower. Available at Napa.

Absolute best to avoid rounding off old, stuck connectors. The hex box wrench with the open side will almost guarantee that happening.

joe_keefer · Post by **joe_keefer** » Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:43 pm

T.Hanson wrote:If you are loosening, removing brake line connectors, do purchase the special vice grips. ( See photo in FAQ's ). Not the jagged jaw type, they have an angle top, curve lower. Available at Napa.

Absolute best to avoid rounding off old, stuck connectors. The hex box wrench with the open side will almost guarantee that happening.

thank you, if i can find them i will defenitly buy them!