Rigid fuel line replacement

[Blaise]

I just got my car back from the body shop. They did some frame straightening and basically cleaned up the whole front end of the car. It looks great.

Now I am getting ready to put my new engine in and have much to do.

Tonight, I was ready to re-install the fuel lines into the engine bay and discovered that the body shop pinched about 4 inches of my return line. I am guessing that one of the frame clamps was installed on top of that fuel line. It is completely flat, with zero chance of fuel flow.

I did not plan to tackle the rear suspension until I had the front end back, but it looks like I will have to drop the rear frame to properly replace the fuel line.

Is this fuel line purchased in bulk and custom made? I noticed that there is a BMW part number for it (16121115338), but I can't imagine BMW shipping such a long item.

Any input appreciated.

[thomas_m535i]

[..]
Is this fuel line purchased in bulk and custom made? I noticed that there is a BMW part number for it (16121115338), but I can't imagine BMW shipping such a long item.

Any input appreciated.

I'm not sure how the situation in the US would be, but here in the NL's BMW actually can deliver such long items (and larger as well) without a hassle.

I've obtained both rigid fuel lines new from BMW. Very recommendable; saves you much time trying to replicate the originals yourself.

Edit, top tip: spray paint them with a clear coat (rust prevention) before installing.

[Blaise]

Well, I ordered it from Maximillian. We will see what arrives.

[D.]

The fuel line will come in a large box. And be gently bent in a long curve to fit inside that box. All the bends are already in it. ( Getting the old retaining screws loose can be a bear if they're rusty. I always put a wrench on the phillips screw driver for torque and have a buddy apply big time pressure upwards on the tool so it doesn't slip with a lever situation.) Half the time, the plastic guard sheath (if it has one) that belongs on the engine end, is on the wrong end and has to be cut off and put on the correct end. Removing the rear sub frame expedites things greatly. When you take the old line off, set the new one next to it and gently straighten it to match. Don't nick the line. I bought an inexpensive tubing bender to protect it. After all this, there'll still be some horsing around with it to go through all the clamps, to not touch the other lines, etc. Clamps and screws are available from the dealer. I get 'em at bmw seattle. If you only break two or three screws, you're doing fine.

[Blaise]

The fuel line will come in a large box. And be gently bent in a long curve to fit inside that box. All the bends are already in it. ( Getting the old retaining screws loose can be a bear if they're rusty. I always put a wrench on the phillips screw driver for torque and have a buddy apply big time pressure upwards on the tool so it doesn't slip with a lever situation.) Half the time, the plastic guard sheath (if it has one) that belongs on the engine end, is on the wrong end and has to be cut off and put on the correct end. Removing the rear sub frame expedites things greatly. When you take the old line off, set the new one next to it and gently straighten it to match. Don't nick the line. I bought an inexpensive tubing bender to protect it. After all this, there'll still be some horsing around with it to go through all the clamps, to not touch the other lines, etc. Clamps and screws are available from the dealer. I get 'em at bmw seattle. If you only break two or three screws, you're doing fine.

Thanks for the great information. I loom forward to getting the part. I already have all the old clips out (no rust on my car, so it was easy). I do plan to remove the rear sub frame.