Motronic 1.3 with E12 intake

Eric Q · Post by **Eric Q** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:59 pm

I have local friend who specializes in putting M30B35's in coupes using the original intake system and M1.3. He has the injectors custom made locally. I believe that they are actually from a VW.

Don L.?

Blaise · Post by **Blaise** » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:48 pm

From what I hear, used throttle position sensors (TPS) can cause trouble if they are faulty. I have heard of a few examples where the WOT (wide open throttle) setting no longer worked and the motor ran too lean and was damaged. Given that it is not an expensive part, I ordered a new one.

The manual version TPS is 1/3 the cost of the automatic transmission version, so I am swapping mine over (I have both plugs). As I understand, the automatic version is needed if one goes to megasquirt. I will cross that bridge later, if I ever decide to go there.

Also, the stock E12 fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is rated at 2.5 bar. The M30B35 with motronic 1.3 (179 ECU) needs 3.0 bar.

The bosch 0280160256 FPR should do the trick. This is a Saab 900 regulator that uses the same fuel rail, but is rated at 3.0 bar.

Cheeers,

Blaise

Falkenberg · Post by **Falkenberg** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:23 am

The manual version is cheaper because it's got just two switches: one for idle (throttle closed) and one for WOT. You can verify them easily with a multimeter, you also can hear them 'click' when they open/close. The automatic version has, besides the 2 switches, a potentiometer that can be used to read the exact position of the throttle. Megasquirt indeed uses that kind of information (although it can work without it, by only using MAP). Motronic 1.3 doesn't really care about throttle position, it just relies on MAF.

I've heard somewhere some time ago that you can use the TPS of an M50 tpye of engine for megasquirt on an M30. I think all M50 engines have potentiometers in the TPS, and those might be cheaper / easier to find.

scarey · Post by **scarey** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 5:40 pm

Blaise,

You can also use the FPRs off of some 6-cylinder Jags. They bolt right up and actually have an extension on the outlet (bottom) that will curve back towards the firewall in the direction of your outlet hose. I can't remeber which year at the moment, though.

The injectors are from mid-80s water-cooled VW Vanagons. They are high impedence and flow roughly the same amount.

I started and just about finished the path of M1.3 and an L-Jet manifold, but went with a B35 manifold for the final iteration. You went through quite a bit of extra work than I did as far as modifying your harness, but your's looks much better. There's a lot of attention to detail there.

Here are some pics from a while back. I've added a few that show the regulator installed:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1160830222 ... ingHarness#

Good work on your project.

Scott C.

Blaise · Post by **Blaise** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:28 pm

Thanks for sharing, it is nice to see someone else doing it. If you figure out the specifics on the FPR, post it for the next guy. These are all the important details that are daunting if you are not sure where to look.

YouTube · Post by **Peter Florance** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:48 pm

scarey wrote:Blaise,

You can also use the FPRs off of some 6-cylinder Jags. They bolt right up and actually have an extension on the outlet (bottom) that will curve back towards the firewall in the direction of your outlet hose. I can't remeber which year at the moment, though.

The injectors are from mid-80s water-cooled VW Vanagons. They are high impedence and flow roughly the same amount.

I started and just about finished the path of M1.3 and an L-Jet manifold, but went with a B35 manifold for the final iteration. You went through quite a bit of extra work than I did as far as modifying your harness, but your's looks much better. There's a lot of attention to detail there.

Here are some pics from a while back. I've added a few that show the regulator installed:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1160830222 ... ingHarness#

Good work on your project.

Scott C.

Scott, do you have a Bosch part # for the Vanagon injectors?

scarey · Post by **scarey** » Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:36 am

Sorry, Peter, I forgot to post the info. They are Bosch #0280150206.

You can usually find a few sets on eBay or a place like Jegs.

Scott

Blaise · Post by **Blaise** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:58 pm

The motronic 1.3 ECU wire exits on the opposite side as compared to the stock E12. So, I made some brackets to mount it upside down. Even if one did mount it like a stock E12, it would stick out too far towards the back of the car.

<table><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-98mD ... G_0004.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td>From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/1030509870 ... site">1977 530i upgrades</a></td></tr></table>

<table><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Bk9H ... G_0006.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td>From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/1030509870 ... site">1977 530i upgrades</a></td></tr></table>

<table><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Q ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZV54 ... G_0012.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td>From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/1030509870 ... site">1977 530i upgrades</a></td></tr></table>

<table><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/o ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AV0f ... G_0014.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td>From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/1030509870 ... site">1977 530i upgrades</a></td></tr></table>

Luis A. · Post by **Luis A.** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:36 am

Blaise, do you have a picture of the de-pinning tool you have for the EV1 fuel injector connectors? I'm coming up with no definitive one in my web searches.

I'm about to replace my connectors and terminals soon. Found a source in Finland for all OEM connectors and boots, even the 3 and 7 connector ones used on the throttle body and air sensor, if anyone is interested.

YouTube · Post by **Peter Florance** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:45 am

Luis A. wrote:Blaise, do you have a picture of the de-pinning tool you have for the EV1 fuel injector connectors? I'm coming up with no definitive one in my web searches.

I'm about to replace my connectors and terminals soon. Found a source in Finland for all OEM connectors and boots, even the 3 and 7 connector ones used on the throttle body and air sensor, if anyone is interested.

later housings are crimped (check where the boot meets the shell) and don't extract well

Better to break the housing apart with some sharp flush cuts.

Luis A. · Post by **Luis A.** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:58 am

Thanks Peter. Have had to do this?
What about crimping the new erminals? Did it require a "special" crimping tool?

YouTube · Post by **Peter Florance** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:09 am

Luis A. wrote:Thanks Peter. Have had to do this?
What about crimping the new erminals? Did it require a "special" crimping tool?

Yes, if you break apart the shells you can re-use the contacts; depending on whether you get shells that are rear entry or not

Blaise · Post by **Blaise** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:01 pm

Peter Florance wrote:
Luis A. wrote:Thanks Peter. Have had to do this?
What about crimping the new erminals? Did it require a "special" crimping tool?
Yes, if you break apart the shells you can re-use the contacts; depending on whether you get shells that are rear entry or not

Luis, Peter is right (as usual). The factory connectors are crimped. For this reason, it is futile to try to pull them apart and save them. Once in a while, you can get one apart, but you risk damaging the wire.

There is another way of getting them apart (other than breaking the housing off). Use a hacksaw blade to gently cut across the crimps until you just begin to feel the metal connector. Then you can take the de-pinning tool and get it right out. If you are doing a lot of them, this is an easy, gentle and predictable way to pull them apart.

Then you can simply slip the connectors into a new boot and housing.

I can get these and will post about it separately. In the meantime, I threw in a de-pinning tool, housing and boot with the parts that I am sending you today. A small gift towards your restoration

Luis A. · Post by **Luis A.** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:18 pm

Wow! What a guy, thanks for the goodies Blaise!!

I hope to be able to return the favor sometime.

Last question. Did you find a source for that blue connector shell? I sourced black ones only...

YouTube · Post by **Peter Florance** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:25 pm

Luis A. wrote:Wow! What a guy, thanks for the goodies Blaise!! I hope to be able to return the favor sometime.

Last question. Did you find a source for that blue connector shell? I sourced black ones only...

Blue Krylon?