Valve clatter? Lifters? 76 530i

[canada karl]

I finally got an exhaust system on my 76 530i so I can now drive the car after replacing the cyl head with and 85 unit. Ignition and timing is set up properly and the car runs great...lots of power. The only issue is I'm hearing what seems like the kind of tapping you hear from a 'diesel" engine only not that extreme. The valves were adjusted to 12 thou. I tried one of those mechanic's "stethascopes" on the valve cover but coudn't locate where the noise was coming from. Any ideas

[Mike W.]

If the timing chain components are worn it can have a diesel like sound. But if you feel it's a tapping, and excessively, try adjusting the valves again. Make sure the cam lobes are point down, not just not up. You can be on the ramp earlier than you might think and get one a few thou out of adjustment. BTDT.

[canada karl]

I havent had much luck with valve adjustment. Is there a Faq? After I get #1 piston at top dead centre and adjust the intake and exhaust apperantly I can turn the crank 1/3 of a revolution to adjust the next set which I believe is #5 etc. So the pointed ends of the intake and exhaust cam lobes have to point straight down to get an accurate adjustment?

[Mike W.]

So the pointed ends of the intake and exhaust cam lobes have to point straight down to get an accurate adjustment?

Yep, pretty much.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=28172

It's E28 era, but a M30 is a M30 when it comes to this. They did spec 12-14 instead of 10-12 on clearance, but I think either is ok, just pick one don't use 10-14.

[canada karl]

n/m

[bizz]

I did mine the other day - more for the experience of doing it than anything.

First attempt I adjusted between the rocker arm / valve, when i put everything back together the valves were actually noisier..

Second attempt I adjusted between the rocker arm / camshaft. I got a more consistent adjustment this way.

I used a 0.09mm feeler, which is supposed to equate to 0.12mm on the valve side - from what I've read.

This quietened things down noticeably, but there is still some chatter which i'm told is normal for old M30's.

[canada karl]

the 180 degree point to adjust the next valve?

[GripGreg]

Not the next in line, but, next in the firing order.
IIRC, the intake and exhaust lobs don't point perfectly straight down at the same time. So there's a happy medium where they both point as close to straight down as possible at the same time.
And, this doesn't mean straight down to the world, but, this relates to the angle of the head as it sits on the bottom end.
Is that right guys? Did I say it right?
At least I think I did it that way on my 2002.

[canada karl]

This according to the Haynes manual????

[bizz]

I put my car in 3rd and rolled it forward/back to get the lobes pointing perpendicular to the head. Same principal as using a wrench on the crank (but I couldn't get one in there.)

Pulling the plugs makes the engine easier to turn over.

Draw yourself a plan of the head, tick off each valve as you adjust it.

[GripGreg]

I can see I was wrong about them both being ALMOST straight down to adjust.
The intake lobe has to be pointing STRAIGHT at the head to adjust. Then the exhaust lobe needs to also be pointing directly to the head when adjusting each rocker arm.
This lines up the lowest point of the lobe with the contact point of the rocker arm.
Sorry,,,,Greg

[KenB]

I'll bet your issue isn't valves at all. An imperfect exhaust manifold seal can make a sound just like a loose exhaust valve. And since you mentioned that all this started after installing exhaust, that could be it.

Check the torque on those manifold nuts, I say.

KenB