Car Still Overheats

Sev · Post by **Sev** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 12:34 am

Who wants to deal with it in this heat in Cali. I recently, changed the thermostat, it was broken inside, changed few bad hoses ( planning on changing all soon), flushed the radiator and did put a good coolant, and i did bleed the system. The overheating dropped, but it is still there. Today, i had the car on for 10 min in stationary, and as i looked, the needle was on red.
I did check the fan clutch, it is in a good condition. What could be issue? radiator? water pump?

When i drive, the temp is down, when im stock at a drive thru or traffic, it goes up.

i thought the issues was done, so i could fix my AC, apparently not.

Thank you
Sev

KenB · Post by **KenB** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:51 pm

Sounds very much like a bad fan clutch. How are you sure that yours is good?

When the car is warm and running, try to stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper. If you can stop it and hold it in place with the newspaper, your clutch isn't working properly. If you can't, it is.

KenB

Sev · Post by **Sev** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:31 pm

I did try to stop it, but it just didnt stop. Thats how i tested it

Sev · Post by **Sev** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:34 pm

Could it be my headgasket? The car has 139k miles

canada karl · Post by **canada karl** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Check the dipstick and the filler cap on the valve cover...if there is a chocolate milk like substance there you have a blown head gasket.

canada karl · Post by **canada karl** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Check the dipstick and the filler cap on the valve cover...if there is a chocolate milk like substance there you have a blown head gasket.

Sev · Post by **Sev** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:47 pm

After the car has warmed up or before?

Falkenberg · Post by **Falkenberg** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:10 am

Blown gaskets will not always cause liquids to mix.

When the car is hot, is the return hose coming from the radiator hot as well?
Did you put the right thermostat in there? I once put an older style in a newer style engine, caused it to heat up quite bad.
When the engine is warm, can you squeeze the hoses? or is there a lot of pressure in the system?

How did you bleed? It might help bleeding the system with the nose pointing up. Does the small hose between radiator and expansion tank flow free?

Jeff Dennis · Post by **Jeff Dennis** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:38 pm

All good advice there… have you tried it without the thermostat installed?

If this is your issue it should run in the middle of the gauge when warm simulating a fully open thermostat. Then again do you know the gauge is correct? An Infrared thermometer is inexpensive and can read temps at the radiator.

Others have had trouble bleeding the system fully.
If you have coolant in the oil the chocolate milkshake look will be there with the motor off it makes the oil foamy and lighter in color.

Sev · Post by **Sev** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 11:45 pm

Thank you guys, i will double check everything, and re do the bleeding system with the front raised. I did get the thermostat right, the 71C. When i drive, the temperature comes and stays right before the line, where its suppose to be. I really have to fix this asap, the AC needs to be recharged.

Falkenberg · Post by **Falkenberg** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 3:11 am

If you have the ability, also check ignition advance and fuel / air ratio.
Poor timing and lean mixture can put an extra strain on the cooling system.

Lenny D. · Post by **Lenny D.** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:10 pm

Depending on its age, you likely need a new radiator.

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 2:56 pm

Did I mention for you to have the radiator 'rodded out'? I say it all the time.
Warm 'er up, turn 'er off & feel the radiator in four different spots with your palm.
If it's hot everywhere, it's a good thing. Cold in spots means it's plugged up in places.
Like Falkenberg said, make sure the small radiator over flow hose runs clear.
It happened to me!

Greg

CBradio · Post by **CBradio** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 8:33 pm

I'm having similar problems. If I'm moving, I'm fine. But If I'm idling, or in stop and go traffic, my car will get warm.

I'm curious: what is the weather like where you live?

Here its hot AND very humid. I suspect 90 degree weather in the city, with the stop and and go and humidity just may be too much for the system as designed. Are you running 50/50 coolant/water?

If you run the car, starting it cold, with the coolant cap off, does the coolant move around when the car warms up? If not, your water pump may be bad.

DO NOT open the coolant cap when the car is warm, it will blow up in your face because it is pressurized.

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:28 pm

CBradio wrote:I'm having similar problems. If I'm moving, I'm fine. But If I'm idling, or in stop and go traffic, my car will get warm.

I'm curious: what is the weather like where you live?

Here its hot AND very humid. I suspect 90 degree weather in the city, with the stop and and go and humidity just may be too much for the system as designed. Are you running 50/50 coolant/water?

That is not too hot. I used to take mine to Las Vegas in July and August and never overheated. Aux fan would spend some time on high with the A/C cranking, but never high enough I was worried. A good radiator, with a good water pump, with the 528i aux fan and it's fine. Not saying the gauge will never budge, but no danger of overheating. And believe me, LV in the summer is much warmer than NY.

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