E28 Evaporator core vs. E12
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Robert Bondi
- Posts: 402
- Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 12:33 am
- Location: Austin, TX
Re: E28 Evaporator core vs. E12
LOL. Not stalling on the AC front, but currently consumed in minimizing mistakes on the welding front.
Robert
77 530i
77 Euro 528
77 530i
77 Euro 528
Re: E28 Evaporator core vs. E12
All, happy to announce that the complete rebuilt of Evelyn’s a/c and heater box is nearly complete. New e28 evaporator (which fit in the evap box under the resistor with a bit of bending, all new o-ring-fitted hoses and pipes, new e28 expansion valve, 14x21 VintageAir condensor, VA receiver/drier, Sanden compressor, original two-stage condensor fan, refurb’d blower switch. Still tinkering with coolant level, but blowing pretty cold. If I ever figure out how to post photos on this site I’ll give a rundown of the steps and the parts.
Good discovery is that the e28 evap will work in our cars if you’re prepared to do a litle bending and to make your own exit tube from under dash into the engine compartment. I have one open question there — whether the elbow of the low pressure line protrudes so far that it interferes with the ABS panel that sits between it and the glove box. Assume that worked out unless I report otherwise.
But one real mystery is outstanding, and I would love to know if anyone else has experienced it. My new a/c blower blows well, but only at speeds 0 through II (those of you with 528is know that our blower is always on, even at 0, when the a/c is engaged). It also works at III, but when set on III it only blows at speed II (to my ear and hand, anyway). This doesn’t sound like a classic resistor issue (usually the broken resistor causes the specific circuit to drop out altogether). I have tested my switch, and it seems to operate properly (very odd switch!), the wiring to the resistor is all correct. The heater side of the switch, which pins out the same as the a/c side, gives me a real strong position III, much higher than II.
One theory is that inside the resistor cage the spring that provides resistance at II has somehow bridged to position III within the resistor cage. Getting that resistor out to check for this is not what I want to do this week.
Anyone seen this, or have thoughts I haven’t thought? Bob Bondi has been a big help at different pinch points during this project, but even he isn’t sure what this is.
Thanks in advance.
Ken
Good discovery is that the e28 evap will work in our cars if you’re prepared to do a litle bending and to make your own exit tube from under dash into the engine compartment. I have one open question there — whether the elbow of the low pressure line protrudes so far that it interferes with the ABS panel that sits between it and the glove box. Assume that worked out unless I report otherwise.
But one real mystery is outstanding, and I would love to know if anyone else has experienced it. My new a/c blower blows well, but only at speeds 0 through II (those of you with 528is know that our blower is always on, even at 0, when the a/c is engaged). It also works at III, but when set on III it only blows at speed II (to my ear and hand, anyway). This doesn’t sound like a classic resistor issue (usually the broken resistor causes the specific circuit to drop out altogether). I have tested my switch, and it seems to operate properly (very odd switch!), the wiring to the resistor is all correct. The heater side of the switch, which pins out the same as the a/c side, gives me a real strong position III, much higher than II.
One theory is that inside the resistor cage the spring that provides resistance at II has somehow bridged to position III within the resistor cage. Getting that resistor out to check for this is not what I want to do this week.
Anyone seen this, or have thoughts I haven’t thought? Bob Bondi has been a big help at different pinch points during this project, but even he isn’t sure what this is.
Thanks in advance.
Ken