Done, no death by fire. Disconnect battery, pull plate, scrub dirt/oil/crud off top, blow off with air.
Of course the hoses were stubby and stuck. Mine are new enough to stand the assault, old crunchy would not. Of course the level sender has to come out first, four hex nuts, as doing just the six bolts on the assembly ring won't let the thing out.
Screen was only dirty on the pump end. Once cleaned and reassembled it still made noise,...until I filled the tank. Twelve gallons, I think quieted things.
Why does one car do that and the other not ? And the tank innards looked new.
In tank pump, clean screen.
Sorry to keep using you as my quick reference but my 1980 auto has some of the same issues as yours. Anyway, thank you for your help. I was just checking my Haynes and Real OEM for the in-tank filter or screen. Neither source shows an in-tank filter or screen for 1980 528i auto. So before I dig into this (also concerned about fire or explosion) I just want to make sure there is something in the gas tank to clean. Thanks in advance.
I've had this car ten years, driven in summer, no rust. No way of knowing if the pump or screen was cleaned or changed by previous owner. Just by the color of the unit, good chance original. The plastic gets caramel color from white.
Looking in the pump opening the tank insides looked new. Hoping to find a very dirty screen to say, " A ha!," I was almost annoyed to find only the tiniest particles, and those collected in a small circle under the pump pick up. Maybe that's enough, and needed cleaning ( wouldn't hurt ) but I doubt it.
If the in tank pump is on it's way out, I'm guessing from years and miles, not the teeny particles I cleaned off strangling flow.
And I'm still curious what filling the tank from one quarter full had to do with quieting the noise.
Without looking at realoem.com., I can't imagine an auto transmission determines anything fuel delivery. You have an in tank pump.
First thing I'd do over is fill the tank. As my new fuel pressure regulator, combo relay, fuel pump swaps haven't been the eureka solution, I'd try the O2 sensor first.
If you do decide to look at the in tank filter, do assess the condition of the fuel lines. Old ones should be replaced, but you'll see they have to squeeze through a pretty skinny space to get to the pump over the rear axle. Just be ready for phase two if trying to pull old fuel lines off the pump finds crumbs and mush. Not much extra to cut off, and they are tie wrapped underneath if you want to pull for slack.
If you are outside, trunk open, battery disconnected, pretty minimal chance for fumes. Static electricity is only a problem if you rub on something to get charged, and the first thing you touch on the car to cause the discharge spark is right in the heavy fumes area. Insert gas nozzle, go back in car seat to get wallet, then go back and touch nozzle by fuel door.
Then be on Utube.
Looking in the pump opening the tank insides looked new. Hoping to find a very dirty screen to say, " A ha!," I was almost annoyed to find only the tiniest particles, and those collected in a small circle under the pump pick up. Maybe that's enough, and needed cleaning ( wouldn't hurt ) but I doubt it.
If the in tank pump is on it's way out, I'm guessing from years and miles, not the teeny particles I cleaned off strangling flow.
And I'm still curious what filling the tank from one quarter full had to do with quieting the noise.
Without looking at realoem.com., I can't imagine an auto transmission determines anything fuel delivery. You have an in tank pump.
First thing I'd do over is fill the tank. As my new fuel pressure regulator, combo relay, fuel pump swaps haven't been the eureka solution, I'd try the O2 sensor first.
If you do decide to look at the in tank filter, do assess the condition of the fuel lines. Old ones should be replaced, but you'll see they have to squeeze through a pretty skinny space to get to the pump over the rear axle. Just be ready for phase two if trying to pull old fuel lines off the pump finds crumbs and mush. Not much extra to cut off, and they are tie wrapped underneath if you want to pull for slack.
If you are outside, trunk open, battery disconnected, pretty minimal chance for fumes. Static electricity is only a problem if you rub on something to get charged, and the first thing you touch on the car to cause the discharge spark is right in the heavy fumes area. Insert gas nozzle, go back in car seat to get wallet, then go back and touch nozzle by fuel door.
Then be on Utube.