Hey guys, my '79 633, with original engine and 140,000 miles on it, has recently started puffin blue smoke when I fire it up in the morning - after it runs a couple minutes, the smoking stops. What can I do to stop this from getting worse? I think I read somewhere that replacing valve stems would be the fix for a smoking issue, anything to that? I've toyed around with the idea of replacing this original engine with a b35 from a later model, but this is such a sweet runnin little car, I've almost changed my mind about a swap - It'll never be a screamer, but it's solid, reliable and a load of fun to drive - I may just leave her alone.
Thanks,
Bob
smokin question re: my '79 6er
smokin question re: my '79 6er
e12 based '79 6er
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
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Start up smoke is most likely valve guides or seals. Replacing requires removing the head and the famous, " While you're doing that you may as well..." expenses.
All that's happening is oil in the head is leaking into the jugs, to be there for the start. It burns off, and heat usually mitigates the leaking after warm up: no smoke. Not very much smoke for not very long, depends upon how picky you are vs. how much money you care to spend for no smoke.
For fun, white smoke is coolant or water condensation in the exhaust system on cold days. Lots of white that smells like coolant is generally accompanied by milky looking oil and overheating when serious. ( Cracked head ).
Lots of smoke under hard acceleration is usually high miles, tired rings, pistons. The owner's book recommends cruising 4 grand on the tach every now and then to toast the city off the pistons.
As in 2nd or 3rd on the freeway for a few minutes. Around the neighborhood usually causes a rumpus, smoke out the arresting officer's ears.
Start up smoke is most likely valve guides or seals. Replacing requires removing the head and the famous, " While you're doing that you may as well..." expenses.
All that's happening is oil in the head is leaking into the jugs, to be there for the start. It burns off, and heat usually mitigates the leaking after warm up: no smoke. Not very much smoke for not very long, depends upon how picky you are vs. how much money you care to spend for no smoke.
For fun, white smoke is coolant or water condensation in the exhaust system on cold days. Lots of white that smells like coolant is generally accompanied by milky looking oil and overheating when serious. ( Cracked head ).
Lots of smoke under hard acceleration is usually high miles, tired rings, pistons. The owner's book recommends cruising 4 grand on the tach every now and then to toast the city off the pistons.
As in 2nd or 3rd on the freeway for a few minutes. Around the neighborhood usually causes a rumpus, smoke out the arresting officer's ears.
Yep, more than likely valve guide seals. I can be a little anal about things mechanically, so I'd change them out at my convenience, and maybe do a quick lap on the valves, but not a full valve job unless there was a good reason. You will never pay for it in oil savings, but to me the danger is letting it go too low when you have to top off regularly. You're busy, start putting some miles on it, loan it to someone or just don't have time to get too it and bang, there goes a rod. From what I used to see, many early M30s were lost due to running them out of oil. Now they're more enthuiast cars not just appliances so it probably doesn't happen as often percentage wise, but I think you see where I'm going.
Mike W.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
03 QX4, AKA the Datsun. Finally got the 4WD vacationmoble to stop smoking.
07 Xterra. Still on the DL, a purchase from hell.
Exactly my thoughts.Mike W. wrote:Yep, more than likely valve guide seals. I can be a little anal about things mechanically, so I'd change them out at my convenience, and maybe do a quick lap on the valves, but not a full valve job unless there was a good reason. You will never pay for it in oil savings, but to me the danger is letting it go too low when you have to top off regularly. You're busy, start putting some miles on it, loan it to someone or just don't have time to get too it and bang, there goes a rod. From what I used to see, many early M30s were lost due to running them out of oil. Now they're more enthuiast cars not just appliances so it probably doesn't happen as often percentage wise, but I think you see where I'm going.
1977 BMW 530i
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
Smoke is in the air
And following advise I will do the head next. Got the kit from Walloth & Nash, they have a special and includes the valve seals, all gaskets needed. The bronze guides from Beck Arney and the valves from Walloth. I will do the head completely as I have learned this is a vital part to a healthy and happy engine. I had done the cylinder rings before so I have the compression.
One great thing about the E12 is the fact you can find most if not all the parts. I just did all the window guides and seals to the doors and the interior got that new car feeling as to the exquisite ride with plenty silence and believe it all makes the car run better and better.
It's hard to stop, it's such a great automobile!
One great thing about the E12 is the fact you can find most if not all the parts. I just did all the window guides and seals to the doors and the interior got that new car feeling as to the exquisite ride with plenty silence and believe it all makes the car run better and better.
It's hard to stop, it's such a great automobile!