As I near my M30B34 euro conversion (5 speed too) first fire up, I am wondering what kind of oil I will run in it.
This is a motor that was rebuilt less than 10k miles ago, so is broken in, but fresh.
I usually run mobil 1 synthetic in my vehicles.
Input appreciated.
Mobil 1 recommends 0W40, but that seems rather light to me.
Engine oil choice
Engine oil choice
1977 BMW 530i
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
You can do a Google search of previous discussions on the subject.
My stock 2.8's, 60,000, 150,000 get Napa, Valvoline spec 10/40, changed every 3,000. Unless I remember a thousand late.
Works fine, no problems, smoke, noise, but I drive all nice and quiet and the cars are just daily drivers. Probably if I had your car, engine I might think I should buy fancier labels on the bottles.
My stock 2.8's, 60,000, 150,000 get Napa, Valvoline spec 10/40, changed every 3,000. Unless I remember a thousand late.
Works fine, no problems, smoke, noise, but I drive all nice and quiet and the cars are just daily drivers. Probably if I had your car, engine I might think I should buy fancier labels on the bottles.
There is more to oil than thickness to be sure, but... clearances and other things were designed for 20-50. I might go 10-50 or 20-40 or 15-40, maybe even 10-40, but nothing thinner. 20-50 is spec'd for a very wide temperature range. Many M30s, more 3.5s, but still, many M30s have gone 300K on 20-50. 0-40 even with synthetic is way too thin.
Mike W.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
08 Toyota 4Runner. 4WD vacationmobile. No enthusiasm, but it didn't leave me stranded or use any oil. Reserving judgement for now.
02 525ita. Wife's, aka grocery getter
02 530i. New to the fleet, 3 pedals.
08 Toyota 4Runner. 4WD vacationmobile. No enthusiasm, but it didn't leave me stranded or use any oil. Reserving judgement for now.
That was my thought too. I will likely run a 20W50.Mike W. wrote:There is more to oil than thickness to be sure, but... clearances and other things were designed for 20-50. I might go 10-50 or 20-40 or 15-40, maybe even 10-40, but nothing thinner. 20-50 is spec'd for a very wide temperature range. Many M30s, more 3.5s, but still, many M30s have gone 300K on 20-50. 0-40 even with synthetic is way too thin.
1977 BMW 530i
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
1973 R75/5 BMW (motorcycle)
I thinked a lot, before I decided to post my reply...
I know - some of you will say - it is unduly.
I use Selenia 10W60 fully syntetic in my Euro M30B28.
I'm "in a hurry" to say - I did this after an engine overhaul.
As a first step I used some Shell semi-syntetic - I even didn't remember it's "numbers", because it was only for a initial run-in period.
After maybe 800 km (500 miles) I switched to fully syntetic.
There were two benefits I've noticed:
1. With the first oil, at hot weather and heavy engine load - the needle of the temperature gauge went somewhere to one or one and a half o'clock.
After the transition to fully syntetic this issue disappeared - at the same circumstances the needle was nailed to 12 o'clock.
2. Without any doubt - better and faster engine start at cold weather (-15 degrees Celsius).
I know - some of you will say - it is unduly.
I use Selenia 10W60 fully syntetic in my Euro M30B28.
I'm "in a hurry" to say - I did this after an engine overhaul.
As a first step I used some Shell semi-syntetic - I even didn't remember it's "numbers", because it was only for a initial run-in period.
After maybe 800 km (500 miles) I switched to fully syntetic.
There were two benefits I've noticed:
1. With the first oil, at hot weather and heavy engine load - the needle of the temperature gauge went somewhere to one or one and a half o'clock.
After the transition to fully syntetic this issue disappeared - at the same circumstances the needle was nailed to 12 o'clock.
2. Without any doubt - better and faster engine start at cold weather (-15 degrees Celsius).