DIY test for ball joints and tie rods?

[canada karl]

Is there any way I can do a basic check on the front end of my Five to see if the ball joints and tie rods are still good?

[Mike W.]

Big channellocks, like 16". See if there's any movement when you clamp them together. You'll have enough leverage you can flex parts, but look for movement in the joint. Ideally there will be none, a little is not too bad, an eighth of an inch is a lot, a quarter is huge. Oh, that's right, location, think 1MM, 4MM, 8MM, but you probably know english better than we know Metric.

[T.Hanson]

So, we are checking the cone/taper fit when the nut is tight ? I've jacked up the front suspension, hands at nine and three o'clock to wiggle the tire in/out. Watch the tie rods move directly, no bolt wobble or looseness.

My last fight removing tie rods used a tool from Bavarian Auto, but only on one side. They don't tell you it doesn't fit to work on the opposite side. I know the trick is supposed to be whacking the side of the joint smartly, but all I heard was laughing from somewhere.

Using a pickle fork seems like guaranteed grease boot destruction. I found out the hard way threading the castle nut to protect the bolt from hammer hitting,...those castle nuts are very fancy pitch, not available anywhere but the dealer.

In short, I'm not looking forward to playing with tie rods, center link anything.

[Mike W.]

You have to use the right seperator tools, and a pickle fork isn't one of them. You need one like this



Or like this



but not a pickle fork. The clamp type ones work well and even better if you put some pressure on them, then give a little smack of the hammer to the top of the stud or whatever is putting pressure on it. Not beat on it, but that little extra tap breaks it loose without really cranking on things. Ball joint tools don't always work on tierods, but the same principals apply, no pickle forks!