Caliper rebuild

[T.Hanson]

Followed FAQ, rears removed, kit on the way.

Assume unless rebuilding, do not split, disassemble. Tiny nick in one dust shield ring, no leaks, worked fine, choosing to leave it alone.

For the other, to be rebuilt, it doesn't look like the allen bolts holding the halves together allow standard wrenches or a socket on the *#! nuts ?

[T.Hanson]

Never mind. Rust buster, dust crud remove, tight squeeze. Socket fits. Rebuilt ten Kart calipers, probably all same.

[alotawatts]

For the other, to be rebuilt, it doesn't look like the allen bolts holding the halves together allow standard wrenches or a socket on the *#! nuts ?

If you do split the halves the bolts and O rings should be replaced I think.
I have not priced them through a dealership but I've never seen them listed with any part suppliers.

[Karl in KS]

When I did mine I did not split the caliper halves -- no moving parts, nothing to wear out. If it doesn't leak, don't mess with it. The rebuild kit was set that way -- only had seals and dust boots for the pistons.

[alotawatts]

I'm starting mine with kits. $14. each side. I won't split mine. If you can't source rebuilt calipers locally it adds up fast cost wise because you have core charges and shipping.
There is a big difference between rebuilt and remanufactured too. The later being split open and calipers cleaned to original silver finish etc. pricey!
Adam Wilson has pics using an Evaporust soak. He did'nt split them.

[T.Hanson]

I accidentally split mine, from karting experience not imagining a rebuild kit wouldn't be complete. The two little rubber transfer port washers not included.

Luck had them in reusable condition. As I wouldn't count on that, I'd not do it again (until I had source, new ones in hand.)

Cost being the variable, the assembly bolts were pretty rusted and I wouldn't like to spend the extra time fooling around fitting the pistons and dust boots in the assembled caliper. Too much easier looking right straight down at everything, being able to push straight down.

If $56 or close, and available, I vote to let a factory do it. A year ago that's what I paid from carpartstogo.com., new pins, clips, pads, bleeder screw. That's $20 to let somebody else clean everything, coat, plate and assemble.

[alotawatts]

I vote to let a factory do it.

+1 but I have to do everything I can to keep these cars 'on the cheap'.

[Mike W.]

If $56 or close, and available, I vote to let a factory do it. A year ago that's what I paid from carpartstogo.com., new pins, clips, pads, bleeder screw. That's $20 to let somebody else clean everything, coat, plate and assemble.

Hey, wait a minute. If you start using practical logic like that, we would drive 10 year old Toyotas, not 30 year old BMWs. Granted I'm one of those left coasters to whom rust is only a rumor, but I've never had a problem rebuilding one. And I fear getting one from the rust belt before it was rebuilt.