Firstfives.org

Put a wrench/socket on the large crank nut (36mm??). That will keep the crank from turning, as it is put on with 350 ft-lbs .

Thanks Blaise,

I'll call them Monday.

Does anyone have a source for the two pin harness connectors that go to the fuel injectors?
Mine are all cracked or broken and need to be replaced.
Has anyone done this and have some hints on what to be careful with?

Ron,
I think I have a e28 bracket if you still need it.
I'm in San Jose. Let me know if you want it. Its free.
Bob
4083985149

Yes, just pull fuse #1 and the fuel pump will be disabled.
No need to go in the glove box.
Bob

Here's a link to the best e34 site I've found.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/

Peter,

The swivel joints are what usually break. They are held in by a plastic tab that is accessed through the square hole in the connecting rod and the rotating mechanism on the air box. You need to press on the tab as you pull the swivel joint off. Easier said then done as the access is limited ...

I have been running 8" X 16" ET24 BBS' with no problems.
Tire size is 225 - 50
Bob

As you already have the parts for the cooling system, I would go ahead and replace them and see if the engine runs OK.
At 220+K miles it should still have many good miles left on it.
That being said, do you have milk shake in your oil? If you do you definately have at least a head gasket issue.
As ...

My previous 79 had this problem when it would get cold here. Living in Northern California that means the high 30's. I would just remove the fuse for the fuel pump and then follow Mike's routine.
I have owned 4 different e12's and this was the only one that exhibited this problem.